Quick answer: Keep your Mac plugged in and on a reliable network while Spotlight, Photos, and iCloud finish their background work. Install the latest macOS and app updates, check Activity Monitor, free up some storage, and review Login Items & Extensions. Skip deleting system caches or erasing the Mac until you’ve tried the simpler steps.

A Mac often feels slower right after installing macOS 27 Golden Gate. Fans spin up more, battery drains faster, apps take longer to open, and the interface can lag for a day or two. In most cases this is temporary — Spotlight is reindexing, Photos is analyzing your library, and iCloud is catching up. If things haven’t settled after a couple of days, the steps below will help you find what’s actually causing the slowdown.

Before you start

• Back up your Mac. Use Time Machine or another reliable backup method before making bigger changes.
• Rule out hardware problems. If your Mac was already overheating, running with a nearly full SSD, or showing other hardware symptoms, software fixes alone may not help. Consider an Apple Store or authorized service provider for diagnostics.
• Check for incompatible software. Older security tools, menu-bar utilities, or apps that have not been updated for macOS 27 can cause ongoing slowdowns.
• Ensure good ventilation. Keep the Mac on a hard surface and avoid blocking vents, especially while background tasks are running.

Related: The Ultimate Guide to Mac Backup

Quick and effective fixes

Work through these in order. Start simple and only move to the more involved steps if you need to.

1. Give your Mac time

The first several hours after installing Golden Gate are often the busiest. Leave the Mac plugged in and connected to the internet, and try not to pile on heavy work right away.

Open Activity Monitor (Applications → Utilities, or just search for it with Spotlight). On the CPU tab you’ll often see processes like mds_stores, mdworker, or photoanalysisd near the top. That’s usually Spotlight or Photos still working through the upgrade. How long it takes depends on the size of your drive, your Photos library, free space, and network speed. When those processes calm down and the Mac starts feeling normal again, you’re done.

Related: In Depth Guide to Mac Activity Monitor

2. Restart your Mac

A simple restart clears temporary processes and lets the system finish anything that got stuck. Choose Apple menu → Restart, wait for it to fully start up, then use it normally for a few minutes. If it’s still slow, move on instead of restarting over and over.

3. Install the latest updates

Install macOS 27.0.1 (or whatever the newest update is) before digging deeper.

• Go to System Settings → General → Software Update and install available macOS updates.
• Open the App Store → Updates and install everything pending.
• Update non-App Store apps from the developer’s own updater or website.

Pay special attention to VPN clients, antivirus tools, cloud-storage apps, menu-bar utilities, backup software, and display or audio drivers. These run in the background and are frequent sources of post-update slowdowns.

4. Check what is actually slow

Open Activity Monitor and look at what’s really using resources instead of guessing.

• CPU: Sort by % CPU. Look for apps or processes that stay near the top when you are not actively using them.
• Memory: Check the Memory Pressure graph. Consistently yellow or red means too many apps or browser tabs are competing for memory.
• Disk: Use the Disk tab if the Mac beachballs or takes a long time to open files.
• Network: Check the Network tab if cloud syncing or remote files feel slow.

We usually leave Activity Monitor open for a few minutes while the Mac is idle — short spikes don’t mean much. Only quit apps you recognize and don’t need. Avoid force-quitting unfamiliar Apple system processes just because they’re temporarily busy.

5. Free up storage space

Low free space makes updates, virtual memory, app launches, and background work feel slower.

• Open System Settings → General → Storage.
• Review large categories such as Applications, Documents, Downloads, and Bin.
• Remove old installers, duplicate downloads, unused apps, and large files you no longer need.
• Empty the Bin.
• Move big media libraries or archives to external storage if needed.

Apple doesn’t publish one magic free-space number. As a practical target, try to keep roughly 15–20% of the startup drive free, especially on smaller SSDs.

Also: How to Reclaim System Data on Mac

6. Reduce login items and background activity

This is one of the first places we look when a Mac feels slow right after login. Too many apps launching at startup is one of the most common causes.

• Go to System Settings → General → Login Items & Extensions.
• Under Open at Login, remove anything that does not need to start automatically.
• Under Allow in the Background, disable nonessential utilities one at a time.

We suggest starting with recently installed or updated tools. If turning one off solves the problem, check whether the developer has a Golden Gate-compatible update.

7. Let Spotlight finish — rebuild only if necessary

Spotlight indexing uses CPU and disk after a major upgrade. Give it time first.
If search is still incomplete or broken after several days, rebuild the index:

• Open System Settings → Spotlight.
• Open Spotlight Privacy.
• Add your startup disk (or the affected folder) to the list.
• Wait a moment, then remove it.

This forces a reindex. Use it only when search problems persist — not as a routine speed fix.

8. Check iCloud Drive and Photos activity

Major upgrades often trigger iCloud Drive syncing and Photos library analysis. Let these finish while the Mac is plugged in and on a good network.

Open Photos, select Library → All Photos, and scroll to the bottom of the window to check the sync status. If uploads are creating an immediate problem, you can pause them for one day. Avoid turning iCloud Photos off completely just to speed things up — that can restart or complicate syncing later.

9. Reduce visual effects

Liquid Glass looks polished, but the transparency and motion effects can add overhead on lower-memory Macs or under heavy load.

• Open System Settings → Accessibility → Display.
• Turn on Reduce transparency.
• Turn on Reduce motion.

This won’t fix high CPU use or low storage, but it can make the interface feel lighter and more responsive.

10. Disconnect nonessential accessories

External drives, docks, displays, hubs, audio interfaces, and older peripherals can cause delays if their software isn’t fully compatible.

Shut down the Mac, disconnect nonessential accessories, then start up with only power, keyboard, mouse/trackpad, and display connected. Test performance. If the problem disappears, reconnect devices one at a time and update their firmware or related software.

Note: Before disconnecting an external drive, eject it in Finder first. Never unplug a drive while files are being copied or an app is using it.

11. Clear app caches carefully

Cache clearing should not be an early step. Use it only when one specific app is slow, crashes, or behaves oddly after the update.

• Quit the affected app.
• In Finder choose Go → Go to Folder and enter ~/Library/Caches.
• Open the folder for that app and delete its contents (not the entire Caches folder).
• Restart and test the app.

Do not delete unfamiliar files from system-level cache folders. If you’re not sure which folder belongs to the app, skip this step. We only reach for this when one specific app is misbehaving — not as a general speed fix.

12. Test in safe mode

Safe Mode loads only essential system software and prevents many third-party items from launching. If the Mac is fast in Safe Mode but slow in normal mode, a login item, extension, or background utility is likely the cause.

On an Apple silicon Mac:

• Shut down.
• Press and hold the power button until startup options appear.
• Select your startup disk, hold the Shift key, and click Continue in Safe Mode.
• Sign in, test performance, then restart normally.

If Safe Mode helps, return to Login Items & Extensions and disable background items in small groups until you find the culprit.

13. Reinstall macOS before erasing anything

If the Mac is still slow after updates, storage checks, background app reviews, disconnecting peripherals, and Safe Mode testing, consider reinstalling macOS from Recovery.

Reinstalling from Recovery is designed to replace the operating system without intentionally erasing personal files. Still, create and verify a backup first. A full clean install is different — it requires erasing the startup disk and deletes user accounts, files, apps, and network settings.

Only erase the Mac after confirming your backup is complete and that you have the passwords, licenses, and installers you’ll need to set everything up again.

Remember: macOS 27 Golden Gate requires an Apple-silicon Mac. Intel Macs must remain on the newest macOS version Apple supports for the specific model.

When to contact Apple

Reach out to Apple Support or an Apple Authorized Service Provider if:

• The Mac remains consistently slow after several days and the steps above.
• Activity Monitor shows high system resource use with no clear explanation.
• You see repeated kernel panics, startup failures, graphical problems, unexpected shutdowns, or unusual heat.
• Battery life stays severely reduced after background activity has settled.
• A critical app still fails after updating it and confirming Golden Gate compatibility.
• Hardware diagnostics point to a possible component issue.

Final thoughts

Golden Gate includes real responsiveness improvements, but how it feels on your Mac depends on the model, installed software, free storage, connected accessories, and what you’re doing at the moment. Many post-update slowdowns simply improve once background processing finishes and incompatible software gets updated. If the problem sticks around, use Activity Monitor to document what’s happening and contact Apple Support or an authorized service provider.

Read also

• How to Fix macOS Battery Drain
• Why Is Your Mac Browser Running Slowly
• How to Fix ‘Your System Has Run Out of Application Memory’ on Mac
• How to Clear System Data Storage on Mac
• How CleanMyMac Helped Me Revive My Mac

<p>The post How to Fix a Slow Mac After Updating to macOS 27 Golden Gate first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

After a major macOS upgrade—especially macOS 27 Golden Gate—this category frequently jumps without an obvious reason. We have seen machines report 18–30 GB of System Data even when users had not added large new apps, well above Apple’s stated figures for Apple Intelligence models. Local AI tools can add even more.

In this guide we explain what System Data actually contains, why it grows after upgrades, and the practical steps we use to reclaim space safely.

RELATED: The Best System Monitor Apps to Check Your Mac’s Performance

What is System Data / Other storage

Both “Other” and “System Data” refer to the same broad category that holds miscellaneous files the system does not classify elsewhere. Typical contents include:

• Apple Intelligence and on-device Siri models
• Local Time Machine snapshots
• System and app caches
• Logs and diagnostic reports
• iOS/iPadOS device backups stored on the Mac
• Leftover files from deleted applications
• Virtual machine and container data
• Temporary files created during updates

Apple intentionally keeps the category somewhat opaque. That design protects critical system files, but it also makes it harder to see which parts are safe to remove.

Why system data grows after a macOS upgrade

Major upgrades are the most common trigger. During and after installation the system downloads new components, rebuilds caches, creates temporary files, and (on macOS 27) pulls down Apple Intelligence models. Some of those models appear even if you never enable the new features.

Third-party local AI tools compound the problem. A single quantized language model can occupy 10–40 GB. Dictation apps sometimes ship their own speech models ranging from under 1 GB to more than 15 GB. These files rarely show up clearly in the basic Storage view, so they inflate the overall picture.

Older sources of bloat still exist too: accumulated caches, old local snapshots, and leftover support files from apps you removed months ago.

How to check system data size

The process is straightforward on current macOS versions:

• Open System Settings.
• Go to General → Storage.
• Wait for the categories to finish calculating.
• Look at the System Data figure (and any separate Apple Intelligence entry if it appears).

Hovering over the storage bar still shows the approximate size. We recommend taking a screenshot before you start cleaning so you can measure the real difference afterward.

Bonus tip: Visual disk tools such as DaisyDisk remain useful for seeing large folders that the basic Storage view does not explain clearly. DaisyDisk scans your disks and presents a visual map so you can identify oversized items before deleting them.

How to clear System Data storage

Clearing System Data does not require expensive software or risky terminal commands. We use a layered approach that prioritizes the biggest new sources of bloat first.

1. Inventory local AI models (highest impact on macOS 27)

Many of the largest unexpected files in 2026 are local language or speech models. General cleaners often miss them or treat them as ordinary large files.

We use What The Model, a free open-source native Mac utility that scans for models across Ollama, Hugging Face caches, LM Studio, GGUF/Safetensors, MLX, GPT4All, Jan, and other common sources. It shows size, location, completeness, and ownership, then lets you preview cleanup actions that move files to the Trash.

• GitHub: https://github.com/powtac/wtm
• Project site: https://powtac.github.io/wtm
• Releases: https://github.com/powtac/wtm/releases

Run a full scan, sort by size, and remove models you no longer need. This step frequently recovers the biggest blocks of space that other methods overlook.

2. Optimize storage with the built-in Mac tools

Before installing anything else, use the free tools Apple already provides.

Open System Settings → General → Storage and review the recommendations. You can enable Optimized Storage features, manage iCloud content, empty the Bin automatically, and reduce clutter. These options are safe and worth trying first.

3. Review local Time Machine snapshots

Time Machine local snapshots can consume significant space. They are useful for recovery, but they contribute to System Data.

You can list them in Terminal with:

tmutil listlocalsnapshots /

Only delete snapshots if you understand the implications. In many cases the system manages them automatically once free space becomes limited. You can also exclude large folders from future backups in Time Machine settings to limit growth.

4. Clear caches and leftovers with Finder (careful approach)

Open Finder and press Shift-Command-G, then go to:

• ~/Library/Caches
• ~/Library/Logs
• ~/Library/Application Support (look for folders belonging to apps you have already deleted)

Move items to the Trash rather than deleting them immediately. Avoid removing anything you cannot identify. Adobe caches (Photoshop, After Effects, etc.) are common space consumers and can usually be cleared safely if you do not need the old render files.

5. Review iCloud Drive and device backups

iCloud files that are downloaded locally can appear under System Data or related categories. You can manage what is stored on the Mac in System Settings → Apple ID → iCloud.

Old iOS/iPadOS backups stored on the computer are also worth checking and removing if you no longer need them.

6. Use a trusted third-party cleaner for the remaining junk

If you prefer not to hunt through folders manually, a good cleaner can speed up the process. We now recommend starting with free and open-source options before considering paid tools.

See our updated roundup:

→ Best Free Open-Source Mac Cleaners

These tools handle caches, logs, and app leftovers effectively. For duplicate files that also pressure storage, see:

→ Best Duplicate File Finders for Mac

Paid suites such as CleanMyMac remain capable, but many users can recover substantial space with free tools plus the model inventory step above.

7. Restart and re-measure

Restart the Mac, return to System Settings → General → Storage, and compare the new System Data figure with your earlier screenshot. The category can take a few minutes to update.

What usually comes back

Some space recovered from Apple Intelligence models may return. On macOS 27 the system can treat certain on-device models as required and redownload them. Third-party models stay deleted unless you reopen the related apps and choose to download them again. Local snapshots can also reappear as Time Machine continues normal operation.

The realistic goal is not zero System Data. The goal is to remove the unnecessary bulk so the category returns to a more reasonable size for your machine.

FAQs

How do I find out how much System Data is using?

Go to System Settings → General → Storage. The System Data category (and any Apple Intelligence entry) will be listed once the calculation finishes.

Will deleting System Data on my Mac affect my iPhone?

No. Most System Data is local to the Mac. iCloud-synced content is the main exception, and even then only the locally downloaded copies are affected.

Is it safe to delete everything under System Data?

No. Some files are required by macOS. That is why we recommend a layered approach: identify large AI models first, clean obvious caches and leftovers next, and avoid deleting anything you cannot recognize.

How can I keep System Data from growing again?

Be selective about local AI models, run occasional cleanups, empty the Trash regularly, and review Storage Settings after every major macOS upgrade.

Final thoughts

System Data will probably always remain partly mysterious. In 2026 the combination of Apple Intelligence models and the growing number of local AI tools has made the category larger and less transparent than before, especially right after a major upgrade.

The most effective approach we have found is measured and layered: check the current size, inventory AI models with a purpose-built tool, clean ordinary junk with a trusted utility, review snapshots and backups, then re-measure. Used this way, most Macs can reclaim a useful amount of space without aggressive or risky deletions.

If your System Data figure climbed after upgrading to macOS 27 (or any recent major release), start with a clear measurement and a model scan. That combination usually reveals the largest recoverable pieces faster than running a generic cleaner alone.

READ ALSO:

• MacBook Air and MacBook Pro Overheating
• macOS Upgrade – Not Enough Free Space. How To Fix?
• How to Fix ‘Disk Utility Can’t Repair This Disk’ Error
• How to Fix macOS VPN Not Working
• More Mac Performance-related Tips

<p>The post How to Reclaim System Data on Mac (Updated for macOS 27) first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

In this guide we show the practical ways to uninstall Mac apps completely. We start with the built-in methods, then move to the tools that actually clean up the leftovers, and finish with the approaches we recommend avoiding.

1. Built-in methods (simple but incomplete)

From the Applications folder

1. Open Finder and go to the Applications folder.
2. Locate the app you want to remove.
3. Right-click (or Control-click) the app and choose Move to Trash.
4. Empty the Trash.

This removes the main application file. It does not remove related files stored elsewhere on your Mac.

From the App Store

For apps downloaded from the Mac App Store:

1. Open the App Store.
2. Click your profile picture or the store account section.
3. Find the app under your purchased or installed list.
4. Use the option to remove/uninstall it.

App Store apps are generally cleaner to remove than apps installed from the web, but some support files can still remain.

Limitation of both built-in methods: Leftover files in ~/Library are almost always left behind.

2. Best free way to uninstall apps completely

If you want a thorough removal without paying, we currently recommend starting with Pearcleaner.

Pearcleaner is an open-source Mac utility focused on removing applications and their associated files. It finds leftovers in common locations such as Application Support, Preferences, Caches, and related folders, then lets you review and delete them together with the main app.

Why we like it

• Free and open source
• Lightweight
• Good at finding leftovers
• Simple workflow for complete uninstalls

You can find it discussed in more detail in our free cleaners roundup:

→ Best Free Open-Source Mac Cleaners

Basic workflow

• Download and open Pearcleaner.
• Select the app you want to remove.
• Review the list of related files it finds.
• Confirm the uninstall.

This is currently one of the cleanest free options for users who regularly install and remove software.

3. Paid and all-in-one options

Several established tools also handle complete app removal well:

These tools are useful if you already use them for broader maintenance or prefer a more polished interface. For most people who only need better uninstalls, a focused free tool such as Pearcleaner is usually enough.

4. Where leftovers actually hide

When you delete only the .app file, related data commonly remains in these locations:

• ~/Library/Application Support/
• ~/Library/Preferences/
• ~/Library/Caches/
• ~/Library/Logs/
• ~/Library/Containers/ (for sandboxed apps)
• ~/Library/Saved Application State/
• LaunchAgents / LaunchDaemons (in some cases)

Manually hunting through these folders is possible but easy to get wrong. That is why dedicated uninstallers are usually the safer and faster approach.

5. Special cases

Stubborn apps that won’t move to Trash

Some apps stay locked because they are still running or have background helper processes. Quit the app completely (check Activity Monitor if needed) and try again. In stubborn cases a dedicated uninstaller is more reliable than force-deleting the file.

Apps with system extensions

A few apps install system extensions or privileged helpers. These can require extra confirmation or a restart after removal. Good uninstallers usually detect and handle them more cleanly than manual deletion.

Apps installed with their own uninstaller

Some larger apps (especially older ones or virtualization tools) still ship with their own uninstaller. When that option exists, it is often worth using.

What to avoid

Blind Terminal commands

Commands such as sudo rm -rf /Applications/SomeApp.app can delete the main app file, but they:

• Do not remove leftovers
• Carry real risk if you mistype the path
• Offer no review step

We do not recommend this as a regular uninstall method.

Disabling System Integrity Protection (SIP)

Some older advice suggests turning off SIP to force-remove protected apps. This weakens important system security protections and is almost never necessary for normal app uninstalls. Avoid it unless you fully understand the consequences and have a specific advanced need.

Quick FAQs

Is dragging an app to the Trash enough?

It removes the main application, but leftovers usually remain. For a complete uninstall, use a dedicated tool.

Do App Store apps leave leftovers too?

They tend to be cleaner than apps installed from the web, but some related files can still stay behind.

What is the safest free way to uninstall completely in 2026?

We currently recommend starting with Pearcleaner for most users who want thorough leftover removal without a subscription.

How does Pearcleaner compare with App Cleaner & Uninstaller?

Pearcleaner is a free, open-source option focused on straightforward app removal and leftover files. App Cleaner & Uninstaller offers a broader commercial toolkit, including features such as batch uninstalling, startup item management, and browser extension cleanup.

Can I recover an app after using a dedicated uninstaller?

Usually no. Once leftovers are deleted, you will need to reinstall the app if you change your mind.

Final recommendation

For everyday use:

• Try the built-in method first for simple App Store apps.
• Use a dedicated uninstaller (Pearcleaner is our current free favorite) when you want to remove an app and its leftovers.
• Reach for a paid all-in-one tool only if you already use it for broader Mac maintenance.

Completely uninstalling apps is one of the simplest habits that keeps storage cleaner and reduces background clutter over time. Taking the extra step beyond “Move to Trash” is usually worth it—especially on Macs with limited SSD space.

Related reading

• Best Mac Cleaner Software
• Best Duplicate File Finders for Mac
• How to Reclaim System Data on Mac (Updated for macOS 27)
• How to Remove Duplicate (& Similar) Photos on Mac
• More Mac Performance-related Tips

<p>The post How to Uninstall Mac Apps Completely (Including Leftovers) first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

• macOS still doesn’t offer a universal scrolling screenshot feature across apps.
• Safari Web Inspector provides a free way to capture full-page screenshots of webpages.
• Browser extensions are convenient for webpage captures, but they can’t capture desktop apps.
• Dedicated screenshot tools work across browsers, PDFs, chats, documents, and desktop apps.
• For advanced workflows like OCR, annotation, recording, and sharing, a dedicated screenshot app can save significant time.

Apple has made taking screenshots incredibly easy. Press ⌘⇧3 or ⌘⇧4, and you can capture your screen in seconds.

The limitation appears when the content extends beyond what’s currently visible. Whether it’s a long webpage, an email thread, a Slack conversation, or an application settings window, the built-in Screenshot app only captures what’s on screen.

That’s why scrolling screenshot tools continue to be popular among Mac users.

When You’ll Actually Need a Scrolling Screenshot

Scrolling screenshots aren’t just for webpages.

During our testing, we found ourselves using them for all kinds of everyday tasks:

• Saving long ChatGPT conversations
• Capturing complete Slack or Discord discussions
• Sharing lengthy error logs with developers
• Documenting software settings
• Saving online receipts and invoices
• Creating tutorials and knowledge-base articles
• Capturing research without stitching multiple screenshots together

If you’ve ever taken five or six screenshots just to capture one page, you’re exactly the type of user who benefits from scrolling capture.

3 Ways to Take Scrolling Screenshots on Mac

Unlike iPhones, where full-page screenshots are available in some apps like Safari, macOS still doesn’t provide a universal scrolling screenshot feature. The reason is simple: every Mac app handles scrollable content differently. A webpage, PDF viewer, chat app, and desktop application all render content differently, making a system-wide solution more complicated. Here’re three ways for full-page scrolling screenshots.

Method 1. Use Safari web inspector (free, built-in)

This is the strongest free native method because it produces an actual full-page screenshot.

Safari includes a hidden but powerful feature through its developer tools that lets you capture the entire webpage without installing another app.

How to enable Safari Developer Tools

• Open Safari.
• Go to Safari → Settings → Advanced.
• Enable Show features for web developers (or Show Develop menu in menu bar, depending on macOS version).

How to capture a full-page screenshot

• Open the webpage you want to capture.
• From the menu bar, choose Develop → Show Web Inspector.
• Right-click the top-level HTML element (html).
• Choose Capture Screenshot.
• Safari saves the entire webpage as an image.

Best for

• Full webpage screenshots
• Articles
• Documentation
• Research pages
• Users who want a free solution

Limitations

Safari’s built-in capture is powerful, but it only works for webpages. It cannot capture:

• Apps
• PDFs
• Finder windows
• Slack conversations
• Desktop applications

It also requires enabling developer tools first, which makes it less convenient for casual users.

Tip: If you only want to save an article for offline reading, Safari’s File → Export as PDF option is often simpler than taking a screenshot.

Method 2. Use a browser extension (free)

If you primarily browse in Chrome or Firefox, a browser extension is another simple way to capture an entire webpage.

Popular options include extensions such as GoFullPage can automatically scroll through the page and stitch everything into a single image or PDF.

How it works

After installing the extension:

• Open the webpage.
• Click the extension icon.
• Choose Capture Full Page.

Wait a few seconds while it scrolls automatically.

Save the image, that’s done.

Best for

• Blog posts
• News websites
• Documentation
• Product pages

Limitations

Browser extensions only work inside the browser.

They can’t capture:

• Apple Mail
• Slack
• Discord
• Notes
• Finder
• System Settings
• Code editors
• Local PDF files

If your workflow goes beyond webpages, you’ll probably want a dedicated screenshot tool.

Method 3. Use a dedicated screenshot tool (best for advanced workflows)

If you regularly capture long webpages, application windows, documents, or chat conversations, a dedicated screenshot tool provides the most reliable experience.

Unlike Safari or browser extensions, these apps work across almost the entire macOS system—including browsers, desktop applications, PDFs, messaging apps, and code editors.

Most modern screenshot apps follow a similar workflow. The exact steps vary slightly between apps, but the process usually looks like this:

• Open the app and choose the scrolling capture mode in the menu bar.
• Select the scrollable window or content area.
• Click Start Capture button.
• Wait while the app scrolls and stitches everything together.
• Review, crop, annotate, or share the final screenshot.

For example, CleanShot uses this approach for scrolling captures:

During our testing, CleanShot (read our full review) and other dedicated tools were consistently faster and more reliable than browser-based methods, especially when capturing complex layouts or long documents.

Beyond scrolling capture, many of these apps also include features such as:

• OCR for copying text from images
• Annotation tools
• Blur or pixelation for sensitive information
• Screen recording
• Quick sharing links
• Cloud syncing

These features save time because you can capture, edit, and share everything from a single application instead of switching between multiple tools.

If you need more advanced features or want to compare dedicated apps, check out our guide to The Best Mac Screenshot Tools for Every Workflow, where we compare CleanShot, Shottr, macshot, Snagit, Xnapper, and other options.

What to Do After Capturing a Long Screenshot

Taking the screenshot is only half the job.

Modern screenshot tools can also help you finish the task faster.

Extract Text with OCR
Instead of retyping text from an image, OCR lets you copy error messages, receipts, tables, and notes directly from your screenshot.

Blur Sensitive Information
Before sharing screenshots publicly, hide email addresses, phone numbers, API keys, license numbers, or customer information with blur or pixelation tools.

Add Context with Annotations
Arrows, numbered steps, highlights, and callouts make screenshots much easier for colleagues, customers, or readers to understand.

Share Instantly
Many screenshot tools generate shareable links or cloud uploads, eliminating the need to manually export and attach images.

Related Guides

• Best Mac Screenshot Tools for Every Workflow
• How to Take a Screenshot on Mac?
• Cleanshot vs. Xnapper
• CleanShot vs Shottr
• How to Use the Snipping Tool on Mac?
• How Cleanshot Transformed My Screenshot Game

<p>The post How to Take Scrolling Screenshots on Mac: Full-Page Capture, OCR & Annotation first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

Here’s what we’ve learned after digging through this kind of mess more times than we’d like to admit: a RAW partition doesn’t mean your data is destroyed. It usually just means Windows lost the map it uses to find your files, not the files themselves.

This guide walks through the right order to fix a RAW drive, recovery first, repair second, so you don’t lose anything you don’t have to. Along the way, you’ll see what each step actually looks like on screen, so you’re not guessing your way through menus while your data is on the line, and you’ll know which parts of the process apply no matter what software ends up in your hands.

Also: Disk Partition Management: Merging, Extending, Adding, and More

Highlights

• RAW ≠ lost data. Windows just lost the map to your files — they’re usually still there.
• Recover first, repair second. Pulling files off before running any repair avoids overwriting what you’re trying to save.
• Never format when prompted. That’s the #1 way a fixable RAW drive turns into permanent data loss.
• Check logical vs. physical first. Clicking or grinding means a dying drive — stop repairing and just pull off what you can.
• Same order works everywhere: scan → recover → check for bad sectors → repair. Menu names differ by tool; the sequence doesn’t.
• Prevent it: back up regularly, eject safely, and match the file system (exFAT for cross-platform, NTFS for Windows-only) to how you use the drive.

What does it mean when a partition shows as RAW?

A RAW partition means Windows no longer recognizes the file system on that drive, so it has no way to read what’s stored there. It isn’t a format like NTFS or FAT32; it’s the absence of one Windows understands.

This usually comes from an unsafe ejection, a power cut mid-write, malware, a damaged partition table, or bad sectors piling up gradually over time, and in our experience, an unsafe ejection is the single most common trigger we run into. That “format this disk” prompt looks urgent and final, but formatting at this stage is one of the worst moves you can make.

Logical vs. Physical RAW: know your odds before you start

Not every RAW drive has the same problem, and the fix depends entirely on which one you’re actually facing.

Logical RAW is corruption in the file system or its metadata. The physical disk is fine, and recovery software can usually rebuild that map without much trouble. In our experience, most of the RAW drives we come across turn out to be logical, which is the good news buried in an otherwise stressful moment. Physical RAW means the drive itself is failing, from bad sectors or mechanical damage building up over time. No software fixes a dying disk, and pushing it with repeated scans just risks losing what’s still recoverable.

Listen to the drive before deciding. Clicking, grinding, or repeated disconnects point to physical failure. A drive that sounds normal but won’t mount is more likely a logical issue, and a quick bad sector scan can confirm which one you’re dealing with. If it’s logical, keep going, recovery software gives you strong odds. If it’s physical, stop running repair tools and focus on pulling off whatever data you still can before the drive gets worse.

Before you do anything: the one rule that matters

Stop using the drive the moment you see RAW. We’ve learned this the hard way: every action from here can either save your files or wipe them for good.

• Don’t format, even though Windows keeps asking
• Don’t save or copy new files onto the drive
• Don’t run deep repair commands before you’ve recovered anything
• Hearing clicking or grinding? Disconnect the drive and stop trying to fix it yourself.

How to recover and repair a RAW drive

Recovery always comes before repair; it’s the one rule we never break, no matter how confident a tool looks. Pulling your files off first protects you from anything a repair action might do to the data still sitting there, so you’re never trusting an irreversible step with files you haven’t backed up yet. The general workflow looks like this, regardless of which tool you use:

1. Scan the drive for file system errors first, without letting the tool fix anything yet. This shows you how deep the corruption goes before you commit to the next step.
2. Run a recovery scan and pull your files off before touching any repair option. A quick scan first, then a deeper scan if needed, should surface your original data as a recoverable partition you can preview before committing.
3. Check for bad sectors to rule out physical failure before you commit to a repair. This confirms whether you’re facing a software problem or a drive that’s actually dying.
4. Once your files are safely recovered, run the tool’s dedicated RAW repair function to rebuild the file system and restore the drive to a format Windows can read again.

Most recovery tools follow this same order, just under different menu names and layouts. Here’s what that looks like in practice, using EaseUS Partition Master as one example.

Step 1: Scan for file system errors

Right-click the problem partition inside the app’s disk list, head into Advanced, then pick Check File System.

Leave the Fix Errors box ticked before you hit Start. This tells the tool to repair issues as it finds them instead of just flagging them for later.

Let the scan run its course, then close out with Finish.

Step 2: Recover your files before anything else

Open Partition Recovery from the sidebar, pick the RAW disk, then hit New Scan and wait.

The tool runs a Quick Scan first, then a deeper Full Scan if the quick pass doesn’t find everything. Anything it recognizes as your original data gets tagged as Lost in the results, that’s the partition you want. This is the step we’ve seen people rush, closing out the moment the quick scan finishes because nothing looks recovered yet, when the full scan is what actually turns up everything.

Select it, then click Recover. Double-click it first if you want to confirm the contents match what you’re expecting, then click OK to close the preview.

Once the transfer finishes, close out with Done.

Step 3: Check for physical damage

Go to Toolkit and open Bad Sector Scan.

Select the drive you want checked from the dropdown and enable Scan Disk.

Start the scan and let it map out any damaged areas on the disk. A clean result points to a logical issue you can repair. Heavy damage points to a drive that’s failing and needs replacing instead.

Step 4: Run the one-click RAW repair

Launch the tool, go to Partition Rescue, choose Repair RAW Partition, then continue.

Once it finishes, the drive should show its original format again, NTFS, FAT32, or exFAT, with your files still there. It’s a moment that never really stops feeling like a small miracle, watching a drive Windows swore was unreadable show up clean again.

This order, scan, recover, check, repair, holds regardless of which software you reach for. The menu names will differ between tools, but skipping straight to a repair step before recovering your files is the one mistake that carries across all of them.

Also: Read our full EaseUS Partition Master review

How to fix a RAW partition on different devices

The core approach stays the same everywhere, recover first, repair second, but the tools and warning signs shift depending on the device.

Internal and external Windows drives follow the standard flow above: recover, repair, check for bad sectors if the problem returns, and treat formatting as a last resort once your data is safe elsewhere.

On a Mac, boot into macOS Recovery Mode, open Disk Utility, and run First Aid on the affected disk. We’ve found First Aid clears up the majority of logical errors on its own, no extra software needed. If First Aid can’t fix it, that’s your sign to move on to dedicated recovery tools rather than repeating First Aid over and over.

SD cards and USB flash drives fail RAW more often than hard drives do, usually from a card being pulled mid-write or a camera reporting something like a card error. The reader or port matters more here than people expect; a flaky reader can throw the same RAW-style errors as a damaged card, so try a different one before assuming the card itself is dead.

We’ve swapped a reader more than once and watched a supposedly dead card come right back to life.

Resist running repair attempt after repair attempt on flash storage too, since each pass adds wear, and flash memory doesn’t tolerate repeated write cycles the way a hard drive does. If a card keeps failing across multiple readers, treat that as a sign the card itself is on its way out, not something worth another repair pass.

Also: How to Partition a Hard Drive in Windows 11

Keeping a drive from turning RAW in the first place

Most RAW drives don’t happen out of nowhere. They’re usually the result of one bad habit or one unlucky moment that was completely avoidable, and in our experience, the same handful of habits come up again and again. A few things keep drives healthy long term:

• Back up regardless of everything else; this is the one habit we push harder than any other. A second copy kept somewhere else entirely is still your strongest safety net, no matter what else you do right.
• Match the file system to how you use the drive. NTFS works best for Windows-only drives. exFAT is the better call if you’re moving between Windows and Mac, and FAT32 is worth skipping on anything large since it’s more prone to corruption.
• Give the drive stable, consistent power. This matters most for external mechanical drives, since a cheap cable or an underpowered USB hub can cause enough instability over time to corrupt the file system.
• Run a periodic disk check on a healthy drive. Right-click it, go to Properties, then Tools, and run Error Checking, or use chkdsk from an admin Command Prompt. This only works before a drive goes RAW, since chkdsk needs a file system it can recognize to check in the first place.
• Keep malware off the system entirely, since some malware and ransomware go straight after partition tables.
• Handle portable drives with actual care. Shaking or moving an external drive while it’s reading or writing puts real strain on it.
• Never interrupt a transfer mid-way. Don’t force a shutdown, restart, or unplug a drive while it’s copying, formatting, or running a disk check.
• Always eject drives the proper way, using Safely Remove Hardware in your system tray before disconnecting anything.

Common mistakes that turn a RAW partition into permanent data loss

A RAW drive rarely destroys data on its own. What causes permanent loss is usually the panic response that follows, and we’ve watched this play out the same way more times than we can count.

• Formatting because the prompt told you to. That wipes the map to every file still sitting there recoverable.
• Reaching for repair tools before recovering anything. CHKDSK can’t actually run on a RAW drive, since it needs a recognized file system to check in the first place. The real risk is jumping into a recovery tool’s repair function before pulling your files off, which can overwrite the exact data you’re trying to save.
• Continuing to use the drive while troubleshooting. Every new file written can land on top of data you haven’t recovered yet.
• Choosing recovery software with no preview option, so there’s no way to confirm what’s usable before committing.
• Repeating a failed fix instead of trying a different method. This adds wear without changing the outcome, especially on flash storage.

RAW Partition vs. Lost or Deleted Partition, what’s the difference

People bring us both problems expecting the same fix, but they’re not the same at all. A RAW partition is still there. Windows can see it; it just can’t read the file system. A lost or deleted partition has vanished from the list entirely, though the data beneath it usually hasn’t. Same panic, different problem. RAW needs a file system repair.

Final thoughts

We’ve walked through more RAW drives than we’d like to count at this point, and the pattern never changes. Recover first, repair second, and figure out whether you’re dealing with a logical issue or a dying drive before you touch anything else. Skip that order, and you’re gambling with data you could’ve easily saved. The tool you pick matters far less than the order you follow, the same lesson buried in that flashing prompt we opened with.

Learn more…

• Top Partition Management Programs for Windows
• How to Delete System Reserved Partition
• Best Partition Manager Apps for Mac
• Top Hard Drive Recovery Software for Windows

<p>The post How to Repair a RAW Partition Without Losing Data first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

If our Mac suddenly feels hotter than usual, slows down under pressure, or starts sounding like it is working harder than it should, the good news is that overheating is often manageable once we identify the cause.

How to tell if your Mac is overheating

macOS does not usually throw a big “overheating” warning at us, so the signs are often indirect.

In our experience, the warning signs tend to be:

• Performance slowing down during heavy tasks.
• Fans running constantly or unusually loudly.
• Apps stuttering, freezing, or beachballing.
• The chassis feeling unusually hot to the touch.
• Battery draining faster than expected.

The safest way to confirm what is going on is to watch system load and temperatures with a menu bar monitor or Activity Monitor. That makes it much easier for us to spot a runaway app or background process before it turns into a bigger problem.

Why Macs overheat

There is no single cause. In practice, Mac overheating usually comes from a mix of workload, airflow, software, and environment.

Heavy workloads

Rendering video, compiling code, exporting large files, running virtual machines, gaming, and AI-related tasks can push CPU, GPU, and storage hard enough to generate serious heat.

We’ve noticed that the “it only happens when I’m doing something intense” pattern is very common. That usually means the Mac is not broken — it is simply being pushed into a thermal zone it cannot hold forever.

One recent example made this especially clear: a Reddit user reported that an M5 Max MacBook Pro got unusually hot while running AI workloads, with SSD temperatures reportedly crossing 100 degrees Celsius.

The interesting part is that the bottleneck was not just the CPU or GPU; storage activity itself became part of the thermal problem. That is a good reminder that modern overheating issues can come from places we do not always think to check first.

Bad airflow

Using a MacBook on a bed, couch, blanket, or other soft surface can block vents and trap heat. Dust buildup can also make cooling less effective over time.

We always recommend using the MacBook on a hard, flat surface first before assuming the machine itself is the problem. It is one of the simplest fixes, but people overlook it all the time.

Background processes

Too many browser tabs, login items, sync clients, and utility apps can keep the Mac busy even when we are not actively using it. That extra load adds heat and can make a machine feel randomly hot.

This is especially common when a Mac feels fine at startup but gets warmer and slower over the day. In our own workflow, we’ve found that trimming unnecessary background apps often helps more than people expect.

macOS or app issues

Sometimes overheating starts after an update rather than after a hardware change. We have seen community reports of Mac overheating after macOS Tahoe updates, which suggests that indexing, system services, external display behavior, or a buggy app can sometimes be part of the problem.

That is why we always separate “hardware heat” from “software heat”. The fix is very different depending on which one we are dealing with.

Hardware design limits

Fanless Macs, especially MacBook Air models, rely on passive cooling and chassis design rather than active fans. That means they can still handle a lot, but sustained heavy workloads will hit thermal limits sooner than on a fan-cooled MacBook Pro.

That does not make the Air a bad machine. It just means we need to respect what kind of work it is best at.

How to check what is causing it

Before changing anything, we like to figure out whether the heat is coming from a specific app, a background service, or the system itself.

Here is the process we usually follow:

• Open Activity Monitor and sort by CPU usage.
• Look for apps or processes using far more resources than expected.
• Check whether the issue appears only during one task, one browser profile, or one external display setup.
• Reboot and test again if the problem started recently.
• Try Safe Mode or a clean login session if we suspect a startup item or extension.

A menu bar monitoring tool can make this even easier, because we can see CPU load and system behavior without constantly opening Activity Monitor. When a Mac is running hot, convenience matters — if checking the problem feels like work, we usually do it less often than we should.

If the Mac started behaving oddly all of a sudden, it is also worth doing a quick security check. We do not jump straight to malware every time a Mac gets hot, but unexpected login items, strange background activity, or a compromised browser extension can add heat and make the whole system feel unstable. That is a good moment to run a security-focused scan with Moonlock and rule out anything suspicious before digging deeper.

How to cool down a MacBook Air

MacBook Air models are especially sensitive to sustained heat because they are fanless. That does not mean they are fragile; it just means they need a bit more care under load.

Use a harder, cooler surface

We always start here. Put the MacBook Air on a flat, hard surface so air can circulate properly around the chassis. Avoid laps, blankets, cushions, and anything that traps heat.

When we test a warm MacBook Air on a desk versus on a sofa, the difference is often noticeable surprisingly quickly.

Reduce the workload

Close unused browser tabs, quit background apps we do not need, and avoid pushing the Air through long video exports or other sustained heavy tasks if we can help it.

If we are doing something demanding, we try to treat the Air like a light-to-medium workload machine, not a desktop replacement.

Improve the environment

Room temperature matters more than people think. A cooler room and better ventilation make a real difference, especially if we work for long stretches.

If the room already feels warm to us, the Mac is starting from behind.

Consider a laptop stand or cooling pad

If we regularly push an Air hard and do not mind a bit of desk gear, a stand or cooling pad can help airflow and reduce thermal buildup.

This is not the most elegant solution, but it is a practical one if the Air is your main machine and you do heavier work every day.

How to cool down a MacBook Pro

MacBook Pro models have better thermal headroom because they include fans and heatsinks, but they can still overheat if the load is high enough.

Let the fans work

macOS controls fan behavior automatically, but that does not always respond fast enough to spikes in heat. If we routinely do demanding work, a fan-control utility like TG Pro can give us more direct control over cooling behavior.

For Pro users, this is often the difference between “runs hot and distracting” and “runs hot but stable.”

Watch for runaway tasks

If our MacBook Pro suddenly gets hot, we look for one process monopolizing CPU, GPU, or memory. Browser-heavy workflows, background sync, video effects, and AI tools can all be part of the problem.

In our own testing, it is often not the “big” app we suspect first — it is the browser tab, helper process, or syncing utility quietly eating resources in the background.

Check external displays

External monitors, scaling, and long-lived wake/sleep behavior can sometimes add unexpected thermal load. If overheating started after changing our display setup, we test the Mac with fewer external peripherals attached.

This is one of those issues that people rarely suspect until they unplug a monitor and the heat suddenly drops.

Update macOS and apps

A bug in macOS or in a single app can cause unnecessary heat. If the problem started recently, we update both the system and the app we suspect first.

When overheating begins right after an update, we do not assume the hardware is failing. More often than not, we want to rule out software first.

General tips to prevent overheating

A few habits go a long way toward keeping a Mac cooler over time.

• Keep vents clear and clean the machine occasionally.
• Avoid hot rooms and direct sunlight.
• Use a hard, flat surface.
• Keep macOS and apps updated.
• Close power-hungry tabs and apps when you are not using them.
• Reboot once in a while if your Mac has been running for a very long time.
• Remove unnecessary login items, sync tools, and background utilities.

We also like to think of this as “make the Mac’s job easier.” If the machine is constantly juggling too many things, it is going to run hotter than it should.

Does system monitoring help?

Yes, absolutely.

The easiest way to stay ahead of overheating is to know what your Mac is doing before it gets too hot. A good system monitor tool like iStat Menus can show us CPU load, memory pressure, fan behavior, and other signals from the menu bar, so we do not have to guess whether a specific app is causing the heat.

That is especially useful if:

• Our Mac starts heating up only during one task.
• The issue happens after login and then settles.
• We are trying to compare behavior before and after a macOS update.
• We want a quick way to spot resource-heavy apps without opening multiple system tools.

For us, system monitoring is less about obsessing over every number and more about noticing patterns. Once we can see the pattern, we can usually fix the cause.

Final thoughts

Mac overheating is frustrating, but it usually comes down to one of four things: workload, airflow, software, or hardware limits.

If our Mac is hot, we start by identifying the pattern. Is it happening during one heavy task? After a system update? Only on a soft surface? Only when an external display is connected? Once we know that, the right fix is usually much easier to find.

The main thing to remember is simple: a Mac getting warm is normal, but a Mac staying hot, slowing down, or repeatedly overheating is a sign to investigate.

<p>The post Mac Overheating: Causes and Fixes When Your Air or Pro Runs Hot first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

macOS’s Disk Utility presents APFS partitioning as a clean, almost trivial task — a few clicks, a resize bar, done. What it doesn’t show are the tradeoffs, the invisible rules, and the long-term consequences that can quietly shape how your Mac behaves months or years later.

If you’ve ever hesitated before clicking “Apply”, this guide is for you.

This isn’t a step-by-step walkthrough. It’s about understanding how APFS actually works, when partitioning is appropriate, and how to avoid the subtle mistakes that Disk Utility never warns you about.

Why APFS partitioning is still confusing in 2026

On the surface, APFS feels simpler than the old HFS+ world. No more rigid partitions. No more worrying about exact sizes. Everything appears fluid and reversible.

That’s only partly true.

APFS replaced rigid partitions with containers and volumes, but Apple’s interface intentionally hides that distinction. Disk Utility optimizes for safety and minimal friction — not for teaching users how the system really behaves.

As a result, many Mac users:

• create structures they don’t fully understand
• assume changes are risk-free because they’re “non-destructive”
• only realize the consequences when performance degrades or space runs out

APFS rewards understanding. It punishes assumptions.

APFS Containers vs Volumes vs Partitions

Before touching anything, it helps to clarify the terms Disk Utility glosses over.

APFS Container

Think of a container as the real boundary on disk. It owns a fixed amount of physical storage. Containers don’t resize themselves magically — changing them is more invasive and carries higher risk than adding volumes.

APFS Volume

Volumes live inside a container. They share available space dynamically and can grow or shrink as needed. This is why APFS feels flexible.

Partition

A disk partition sits outside APFS. Creating or resizing partitions reshapes the physical disk layout. This is the most invasive change you can make.

Key insight:

• Most users don’t need new partitions. They need additional APFS volumes. Partitions still make sense when you need hard isolation (different OS, file systems, or strict space guarantees).
• Disk Utility doesn’t explain this distinction clearly — and that’s where problems begin.

What Disk Utility doesn’t tell you

Disk Utility is not lying to you. It’s just not telling you everything. Here’s what it omits:

1. Shared Space Isn’t Free Space

A virtual machine, media cache, or runaway photo library can quietly consume space until macOS itself begins to struggle. APFS won’t warn you when one volume silently starves another — including the system volume.

2. Performance Tradeoffs Are Invisible

Disk Utility never explains how:

• heavily fragmented containers
• constant resizing
• mixed-use volumes (system + scratch + backups)

can affect performance over time.

3. There Is No Real Rollback

If something goes wrong during a resize, Disk Utility offers no meaningful recovery path. “Non-destructive” doesn’t mean “reversible”.

Also read: How to Fix “Disk Utility Can’t Repair This Disk” Error

4. Context Is Missing

Disk Utility doesn’t ask why you’re partitioning. It assumes you know what you’re doing — even when the UI suggests it’s trivial.

Pro tip: Disk Utility’s interface hides contextual controls depending on what you’ve selected in the sidebar. If options seem missing or disabled when formatting, it often means you’ve selected a volume rather than the physical device, which affects the available operations.

When you should avoid partitioning

In modern macOS, partitioning is rarely necessary — but it isn’t forbidden. The problems arise when it’s done casually, without a clear reason or a tested backup.

In practice, these are situations where you should avoid partitioning unless you have a very specific need and a reliable recovery plan:

• Your internal system drive (especially on Apple silicon)
  macOS relies heavily on snapshots, sealed system volumes, and background storage management.
• Time Machine destinations
  APFS snapshots and backups don’t coexist well with manual partition tinkering.
• Encrypted drives you resize frequently
  Encryption + resizing multiplies complexity — and risk.

If your goal is organization, separation, or workflow clarity, volumes are almost always the safer choice.

Kind note: Partitions are still appropriate when you need hard isolation — such as running multiple operating systems, using different file systems, or enforcing strict space guarantees that volumes can’t provide.

Safe APFS partitioning checklist

When partitioning is justified, restraint matters more than precision.

Before you proceed:

• Back up beyond Time Machine
  Snapshots are not a safety net for disk layout changes. Here’s the ultimate guide to Mac backup.
• Decide volumes vs partitions deliberately
  If a volume will never need strict space isolation, don’t partition.
• Name things like your future self will forget
  “Media”, “Scratch”, or “Test” age badly. Be explicit.
• Avoid resizing repeatedly
  APFS tolerates change — it doesn’t love constant reshaping.

Partition once. Then leave it alone.

When Disk Utility isn’t enough (a real-world reality)

Disk Utility handles simple APFS volume changes reasonably well. Where it struggles is with drives that have history.

Over the past few years, we’ve seen issues crop up on:

• external SSDs that lived through multiple macOS versions
• drives converted from HFS+ years ago
• containers resized multiple times without a clear structure

In these situations, Disk Utility often provides:

• no clear feedback
• no explanation of what’s blocking a change
• no insight into what’s actually happening on disk

That’s when third-party tools can make sense — not as a shortcut, but as a way to regain visibility and control.

One example is EaseUS Partition Master for Mac.

While its Windows version has long been considered a power-user staple, the Mac version has quietly matured. In 2026, it’s one of the few tools we trust when Disk Utility offers no clarity or diagnostics. Read our full EaseUS Partition Master for Mac review here.

We still default to Disk Utility for routine tasks. But when something feels off, or the stakes are high, having a tool that shows what is happening — not just a progress bar — matters.

The real takeaway: control without breaking macOS

APFS isn’t fragile. It’s misunderstood.

Apple designed it to protect users from catastrophic mistakes — not to teach them how storage actually works. Disk Utility reflects that philosophy.

If you understand containers, volumes, and when not to intervene, APFS can be remarkably forgiving. If you treat partitioning as a casual tweak, it can quietly punish you months later.

The safest approach in 2026 remains the same:

• think before you resize
• prefer volumes over partitions
• use stronger tools only when understanding meets resistance

Good storage management isn’t about clicking the right button. It’s about knowing when not to click at all.

Keep learning:

• How to Partition A Hard Drive or SSD on Mac
• Mac Meets NTFS: The Ultimate Guide to Top NTFS Tools
• Why Partitioning Still Matters in an APFS World (and When It Doesn’t)
• Top Partition Management Programs for Windows
• All About Disk Partition 

<p>The post How to Safely Partition an APFS Drive on Mac: What Disk Utility Doesn’t Tell You first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

On the brighter side, Apple almost always addresses persistent issues by releasing prompt point updates. Still, sometimes the drain is caused by new, power-hungry features, requiring users to manually tweak settings until a software fix arrives.

If you have recently updated to iOS 26 or purchased a device optimized for it, like the new iPhone 17 series, this guide is for you. We discuss the potential causes of the drain and the specific fixes that can help stabilize battery life and performance.

RELATED: iPhone Overheating: The Why and How to Fix

iOS 26 & Battery Performance: The Causes

While it’s common for the battery to drain quickly right after the installation, the issue can become persistent.

Temporary Post-Update Indexing (24–72 Hours)

Apple confirms that immediately after a major update, the iPhone performs resource-intensive tasks like re-indexing Spotlight, analyzing photos, and optimizing installed applications. This process can cause the battery to deplete faster and the device to feel warm for 1 to 3 days. You can check the Settings > Battery screen for an “Ongoing Device Setup” insight, confirming this work is still happening.

Persistent Drain from New iOS 26 Features

If the drain continues beyond 72 hours, it may be due to the new features:

• Liquid Glass UI: The new transparent, bouncier, and highly animated Liquid Glass design requires more CPU and GPU power to render its effects in real-time. This can disproportionately affect older iPhones or cause greater drain during heavy use.
• Apple Intelligence (AI): Devices with the latest chips (e.g., iPhone 17 Pro models) support the new Apple Intelligence suite. While powerful, this on-device AI—responsible for features like writing tools, Genmoji, and smart Siri behavior—is a significant power consumer.

App Incompatibility

Older apps may not be fully optimized for iOS 26 yet, causing them to get stuck in loops and draw excessive background power.

iPhone 17 & Battery Performance

The iPhone 17 series, being the latest hardware, is designed to handle the power demands of iOS 26, including the most intensive Apple Intelligence features. However, even new devices can experience temporary heating and drain, especially when heavily utilizing the new AI features or the intense Liquid Glass animations.

If the heating on a new Max variant is still making the device difficult to use after the initial 72-hour period, it’s a strong indicator that an app or a system bug needs to be addressed immediately by Apple in a subsequent point release.

In the meantime, the precautions and tricks listed below can help manage the power until the new software updates arrive.

Tips to Control Battery Drain

Experiencing battery drain can be frustrating, especially when you have been waiting to experience the full features of iOS 26 on your iPhone. Here are some practical, proven tips with updated steps for each to help you manage and control battery consumption.

1. Let Post-Update Jobs Finish Properly

To help your iPhone complete the initial indexing and optimization phase efficiently:

• Plug your iPhone into a charger and connect it to Wi-Fi for 1–2 hours with the screen off.
• Check Settings > Battery. If you see an “Ongoing Device Setup” message, let the device rest until it’s complete. Do not chase phantom issues during this time.

2. Update Your Apps

Keeping apps updated ensures they are optimized for the latest iOS, reducing unnecessary battery drain caused by poorly adapted software.

• Start by opening the App Store on your iPhone.
• After you’re in the App Store, tap on your Apple ID icon in the top-right corner.
• Now, navigate to the Available Updates section and update all available apps.

3. Enable Adaptive Power Mode (New in iOS 26)

This new feature intelligently and subtly adjusts your phone’s performance to maximize battery life without requiring you to turn off major features.

• Start by navigating to Settings on your iPhone from the app menu.
• Once the settings are loaded, swipe down and tap on Battery.
• Look for the Power Mode section and enable the Adaptive Power toggle.

4. Tame the Liquid Glass UI

If you have an older iPhone or want to conserve power, reducing the complexity of the new design language can help.

• Open the Settings app on your iPhone.
• Navigate to Accessibility, then tap on Display & Text Size.
• Toggle on Reduce Transparency. This will turn translucent Liquid Glass elements opaque, demanding less GPU power.

5. Identify Battery-Consuming Apps

Identifying and managing apps that use a lot of battery helps you control excessive energy consumption.

• Start by navigating to Settings on your iPhone from the app menu.
• Once the settings are loaded, swipe down and tap on Battery.
• Analyze the apps and their battery usage over the last 24 hours or 10 days. If you find any suspicious app (especially one showing excessive background activity), uninstall or report it.

6. Disable Background App Refresh

Disabling the Background App Refresh feature prevents apps from constantly updating content in the background, which is a major battery saver.

• Open the Settings on your iPhone, and once loaded, navigate to General and tap on it.
• Once you’re in, look for Background App Refresh.
• Check the apps enabled and disable it for non-essential apps, or set the option at the top to Wi-Fi.

7. Enable Low Power Mode

Enabling Low Power Mode instantly reduces background activity and limits excess power consumption, extending your battery life in a pinch.

• Start by navigating to Settings on your iPhone from the app menu.
• Once the settings are loaded, swipe down and tap on Battery.
• After you’re in battery settings, look for Low Power Mode and enable the toggle beside it. (Note: Use this when you need guaranteed runtime, as it temporarily disables key features).

8. Turn off Location Services

Location services use GPS, which is a significant energy drain. Turning it off or restricting it saves battery.

• Open the Settings on your iPhone, and once loaded, navigate to Privacy & Security and tap on it.
• From the list of options, navigate to Location Services.
• Set most apps to While Using and turn off Precise Location for apps that don’t need street-level accuracy. For maximum saving, toggle Location Services off entirely.

RELATED: Top GPS Location Changer Software for iPhone

9. Disable Apple Intelligence

If you have a newer device and rarely use the AI features, turning off the suite can save a substantial amount of battery life.

• Open the Settings app on your iPhone.
• Scroll down and tap on Apple Intelligence.
• Review the available settings and consider disabling any AI-powered features you don’t frequently use, such as the system-wide AI writing tools.

10. Remove Unnecessary Widgets

Widgets, especially those with real-time updates (like weather or news), consume battery by continuously fetching data. Removing non-essential widgets helps preserve the battery significantly.

For Home Screen: Touch and hold the widget you want to remove, then tap Remove Widget, and confirm by tapping Remove again.

For Lock Screen: Start by touching and holding the Lock Screen until the Customize button appears, and tap on it. Now, select Lock Screen, and finally, tap the Remove button to remove a widget.

11. Enable Optimized Battery Charging

Optimized Battery Charging learns your daily charging routine and slows down battery aging by avoiding keeping your iPhone at 100% charge for extended periods. Healthier battery status helps control daily drain significantly.

• Open the Settings on your iPhone, and once loaded, navigate to Battery > Battery Health & Charging and tap on it.
• Now, from the list of options, ensure Optimized Battery Charging is toggled on. (Newer models may also have an 80% Limit option here).

Fixes for Persistent Battery and Performance Issues

If you’ve waited the 72 hours, performed all the above tips, and still see abnormal drain, the issue is likely a stubborn software conflict that requires a more direct fix.

Note: Before proceeding with the below fixes, there is a high possibility of data loss (especially with the Downgrade/Repair options). Hence, back up your iPhone either to iCloud or to iTunes/Finder.

1. Reset All Settings (Recommended First Step)

This crucial step clears out any stubborn service, misbehaving profile, or looping network setting without erasing your personal data (photos, apps, messages). You will only lose Wi-Fi passwords and preference tweaks.

• Go to Settings > General > Transfer or Reset iPhone.
• Tap Reset > Reset All Settings.
• Confirm the action.
• After the reset, perform a simple restart of the device.

2. Downgrade iPhone (For Older Devices Only)

If you have an older iPhone that was upgraded to iOS 26 and you suspect the OS is the issue, you may be able to downgrade to the previous stable version (e.g., iOS 18).

Apple develops iTunes/Finder to manage devices. While it is used by many for basic needs, its uses go beyond, where one can restore their device and fix issues.

Here are steps to downgrade your iPhone iOS software. If you’re lucky, you can get through the restoration via iTunes/Finder. However, if you restored your iPhone with the wrong IPSW file or the signing window has closed, the iPhone cannot be used anymore as it is bricked.

3. Perform System Repair (For New Devices)

The downgrade fix is not possible for new iPhones, like the iPhone 17 series, as they are released with iOS 26 straight out of the box and cannot be downgraded to an older OS.

In such a scenario, a 3rd-party system repair tool like Wondershare Dr. Fone can help. You can repair your iPhone 17 series and even older iPhones that are on iOS 26 by restoring them with the same version of the OS, which often clears deep system corruption without losing data (Standard Repair mode).

1. Download and install Dr.Fone.
2. In the main interface, click System Repair.
3. On clicking iOS Repair, pick “Standard Repair,” as it addresses and fixes most issues without data loss.
4. Now, you’re asked to put your iPhone in recovery mode. Refer to the on-screen instructions, and once you’ve done it right, tap on Enter Recovery Mode.
5. The rest of the process involves flashing the clean firmware onto the iPhone.

If you’re done with all the steps, you have successfully repaired your iPhone 17 or an older iPhone running iOS 26. If problems persist, it is time to wait for the next Apple update or reach out to Apple Support for a hardware check.

Conclusion

This guide offers valuable tips and fixes for iOS 26 and iPhone 17 users facing battery and performance issues. By first understanding the causes (temporary indexing, Liquid Glass, Apple Intelligence) and applying the specific iOS 26 tweaks (Adaptive Power, Reduce Transparency), you can often resolve the drain quickly.

Remember, backing up your data is mandatory before performing drastic fixes like a system repair. These steps can significantly enhance your iPhone’s efficiency and battery life while waiting for Apple’s official point updates.

Keep learning:

• Best iPhone Managers and Transfer software
• How to Put an iPhone into DFU and Recovery Mode
• How to Transfer WhatsApp from Android to iPhone
• Best iPhone Data Recovery Software

<p>The post iOS 26 or iPhone 17 Battery and Performance Issue first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

Whether you accidentally deleted a volume, a macOS update went sideways, or the file system simply corrupted itself, the good news is that the data is often still there. It’s usually just the map (the partition table) that’s gone missing.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through three increasingly advanced methods, starting with the safest and easiest native solution. By the time we’re done, we’ll have your drive map—and your data—back where it belongs.

STOP! The Critical Warning (the non-overwrite rule)

Before you proceed with any recovery method, this is the single most important rule you must follow to guarantee the best chance of success: Do not write any new data to the affected drive.

When macOS deletes a partition, it doesn’t erase the underlying data; it simply marks that space as available. If you install software, save a file, or even allow the system to write logs, you risk overwriting the lost data blocks, making that information permanently unrecoverable.

Immediate Action Plan:

1. Do Not Install: Do not install any recovery software onto the internal drive where the partition was lost.
2. Power Down (If possible): Shut down your Mac immediately to prevent the OS from performing routine background writes.
3. Choose a Safe Environment: You must run recovery operations from an external drive, a separate partition, or the macOS Recovery system.

Understanding the Loss: APFS Containers vs. Volumes

On modern macOS (High Sierra and later), Apple uses the Apple File System (APFS), which complicates the traditional definition of a partition.

• Partition (or Container): This is the high-level physical space on the disk. An APFS Container is equivalent to the old HFS+ partition.
• Volume: Inside a single APFS Container, you can have multiple Volumes (e.g., Macintosh HD and Macintosh HD – Data). These volumes share the container’s space, but they all depend on the container being visible. Losing the entire container is equivalent to losing the traditional partition.

Why Partitions Vanish

Method 1: Native Repair (Disk Utility in Recovery)

If your partition vanished due to corruption (the most likely scenario), macOS’s built-in Disk Utility can often repair the damage without needing complex software. This is always the safest and first step.

Requirement: You must boot into macOS Recovery Mode to ensure the disk is not in use.

1. Boot into Recovery: Shut down your Mac.
   • Apple Silicon (M-series): Press and hold the power button until you see the startup options. Select the gear icon (Options) and click Continue.
   • Intel Mac: Power on, then immediately press and hold Command (⌘) + R.
2. Open Disk Utility: From the Utilities window, select Disk Utility.
3. Show All Devices: Go to the View menu and select Show All Devices. This allows you to see the actual physical disk and the APFS Container, not just the volumes.
4. Run First Aid:
   • Select the physical disk (the top-most entry, e.g., APPLE SSD). Click First Aid and run it.
   • If that completes, select the missing APFS Container (the next level down). Click First Aid and run it again.
5. Check for Success: If First Aid reports that the drive was successfully repaired, quit Disk Utility and restart your Mac normally. Your partition should reappear.

What to know

• Not all problems are repairable by First Aid. If the partition map or APFS container metadata is severely damaged, proceed to deeper tools.
• Use macOS Recovery to ensure the disk isn’t mounted or in use.

Method 2: Advanced Free Recovery (TestDisk)

When Disk Utility fails, we move to open-source power tools. TestDisk is a powerful, free, command-line utility designed specifically to recover lost partitions and repair boot sectors.

WARNING: Command-Line Tool

TestDisk runs in the Terminal and is non-GUI. Misuse can cause further data loss. Use extreme caution and strictly follow the on-screen prompts.

Requirement: You must install TestDisk onto a separate external drive or USB stick, as per the Non-Overwrite Rule.

1. Install Homebrew (If not installed): Homebrew is the easiest way to manage packages on Mac.

   /bin/bash -c "$(curl -fsSL [https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Homebrew/install/HEAD/install.sh](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Homebrew/install/HEAD/install.sh))"
   

2. Install TestDisk:

   brew install testdisk
   

3. Run TestDisk:

   sudo testdisk
   

4. Select Your Drive: Use the arrow keys to select the disk that holds the lost partition and press [Proceed].
5. Specify Partition Table Type: TestDisk will auto-detect this, but for modern Mac systems, select [EFI GPT].
6. Analyze: Select [Analyze] to search for lost partitions.
7. Search: After the quick analysis, select [Quick Search] to scan the drive structure.
8. Write: If TestDisk finds the lost partition, you will see it listed. Verify the size and structure. If it looks correct, select [Write] to save the new partition table to the disk.

After writing, quit TestDisk and reboot your Mac. The partition should be mounted and accessible.

Method 3: Commercial Software Recovery

If neither Disk Utility nor TestDisk can locate or repair the partition table, the safest and easiest path forward—especially for non-technical users—is commercial recovery software. These applications use deep-scan algorithms and provide a simple graphical user interface (GUI).

The Process (Using EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard as an Example)

Crucial Step: You must download and install this software on a separate, healthy drive (either an external SSD or another Mac) to prevent data overwrite.

1. Connect Secondary Drive: Connect the external drive where the recovery software is installed to the Mac with the lost partition.
2. Run the Software: Launch the EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard application.
3. Select the Drive: The software will display all connected drives, including the one with the lost partition. The lost space will often be labeled as “Unallocated Space,” “Lost Partition,” or simply the main disk name.
4. Deep Scan: Select the affected drive and initiate the Deep Scan. This process can take many hours depending on the drive size.
5. Preview and Recover:
   • Once the scan completes, the software attempts to reconstruct the file system structure. Look for folders labeled something like Lost Files or Raw Files.
   • Preview files to ensure integrity.
   • Select the files or the entire partition structure you want to recover.
   • Save the Recovered Data to a third, separate external drive (not the source drive or the drive running the software).

This method bypasses the corrupted partition table and reads the raw data underneath, allowing you to copy files to a safe location.

Prevention: Tips to Help Prevent Lost Partitions

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of recovery. Implement these two practices immediately to avoid this issue in the future:

1. Time Machine is Non-Negotiable: Set up and maintain an automatic, continuous Time Machine backup. If a partition is lost, you can simply wipe the physical disk and restore your data and system in one go.
2. Monitor Drive Health (S.M.A.R.T. Status): Use an application like DriveDx or run a quick check in Disk Utility to monitor the S.M.A.R.T. status (Self-Monitoring, Analysis and Reporting Technology). If the status moves from “Verified” to “Failing,” your drive is predicting imminent hardware failure, and you must back up your data immediately.

Conclusion & FAQ

Recovering a lost partition can feel daunting, but by following a disciplined, tiered approach (Repair > Free Advanced > Commercial), the chance of success is very high. Remember that in the world of data recovery, patience and not writing data are your two most powerful tools.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Can I recover a partition that was encrypted with FileVault?

A: Yes, but it significantly complicates the process. If you use commercial software (Method 3), you must provide your encryption key (or recovery key) during the scanning or mounting phase. TestDisk (Method 2) is highly unlikely to work with encrypted partitions unless you are extremely experienced.

Q: My Mac won’t boot at all. What now?

A: This reinforces the Non-Overwrite Rule. You must use a second Mac and connect the faulty Mac’s drive via Target Disk Mode (T key at startup for Intel Macs) or remove the drive and place it in an external enclosure. All recovery steps must be performed from the second, healthy machine.

Q: After recovery, should I trust the old partition?

A: If the partition was recovered successfully using TestDisk, or if data was recovered using commercial software, you should immediately format the original physical disk (Container) and create a new, healthy partition before writing the recovered data back. The corruption that caused the loss is often persistent.

Q: What if no partition or container appears at all in Disk Utility (shows as ‘Uninitialized’ or not listed)?

A: This may indicate the partition map or GPT header is damaged. At this point you’ll likely need tools that can scan the full raw disk (Method 2 or 3) or professional recovery — you should not initialise/erase the drive, as that will write a new partition map and reduce chances of recovery.

Keep learning:

• How to Partition a Hard Drive or SSD on Mac
• Best Partition Manager Apps for Mac
• How to Recover Deleted or Lost Partitions in Windows

<p>The post How to Recover a Lost or Deleted Partition on macOS first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

Related: How to Fix Slow Mac After macOS Tahoe Update

Does macOS Tahoe 26 drain the battery?

macOS Tahoe 26 is not inherently flawed for battery life. But like previous major updates, it introduces new features and background tasks that may temporarily increase resource usage. Common reasons for perceived battery drain after upgrading include:

• Indexing and syncing tasks (Spotlight, Photos, Messages, iCloud) running after update. It is also true that Spotlight is more powerful on Tahoe. So, the indexing and maintenance may end up consuming more resources.
  
• New AI features like Apple Intelligence and proactive suggestions using CPU/GPU cycles. As more of these AI features run in the background, you may end up losing more battery juice.
• Older Intel Macs struggling with modern workloads. Since macOS Tahoe introduced more changes to the background infrastructure, many of these tasks put more load on an older Intel Mac.
• Different efficiency levels across Apple Silicon generations. Compared to M1/M2 chips, both M3 and M4 chips are optimized for better AI performance. This translates to relatively poor performance on those M1/M2 chips.

These impacts often settle after a few days. With proper management, most users can enjoy Tahoe’s benefits without major battery loss.

How does AI affect battery life?

Apple Intelligence, enhanced Siri, natural-language photo search, and proactive Spotlight suggestions do run background processes that use additional power.

• You can limit or disable features such as Memory Movies in Photos, Spotlight suggestions, or Apple Intelligence system integrations to reduce their impact.
• On newer Apple Silicon Macs (M3, M4), hardware optimizations help minimize AI power draw.
• If you don’t actively use Apple Intelligence, turning it off can also reduce background load.

Keep in mind that well-integrated AI features can enhance your macOS Tahoe experience. However, if your Mac has limited RAM, running all these features in the background can slow down your device.

Basic Mac maintenance (start here)

These are some basic maintenance tips that can improve the battery life of your Mac after a significant update.

#1 Restart Your Mac

This one’s easy but often overlooked. A quick restart can clear out temporary issues that affect power management. Just click Apple Menu > Restart and see if things improve.

Your Mac will restart a few times during the update, but you should manually restart after the initial setup. It will also help you optimize your apps if they install updates.

#2 Update macOS

Go to System Settings > Software Update to check for updates waiting for you. In most cases, Apple would release a minor update within a week or so. This update optimizes your Mac and resolves bugs like battery drain.

Pro Tip: After a major macOS update, give your Mac 24–48 hours to finish indexing before judging battery performance.

Battery health and usage patterns

A quickly draining battery may have to do with hardware as well. So, you should check the options below.

#3 Check Battery Health

Head to System Settings > Battery > Battery Health to see your battery’s condition. If it says “Normal”, you’re good. But if it’s showing “Service Recommended”, it might be time for Apple to check your battery.

Don’t worry. If you see the message during the warranty period, you’ll get a free replacement.

#4 Use Activity Monitor

We recommend taking a look at Activity Monitor to see what might be draining your battery. Open Activity Monitor > Energy tab, and sort by Energy Impact. This will show you which apps and processes are using the most power.

If something looks off (like a process using way more energy than expected), close it to save some juice. If the built-in Activity Monitor doesn’t cut it, you can go for a third-party monitoring app. Such apps typically provide an overview of what is affecting your battery life.

In most cases, you’ll come across an app that takes up a lot of energy. If it’s not a necessary app, you can get rid of it or go for a lightweight alternative. Apps consuming more battery resources is common if you are running a version that isn’t optimized for macOS Tahoe. So, before you uninstall the app, check for an update.

Check for and turn off background apps/activity

Background activities and apps may offer a relatively snappy experience. But they come at the cost of battery backup. Here are some steps.

#5 Find and Turn off Background Apps

Some apps may have daemons running in the background, consuming battery resources. They are difficult to spot through the Activity Monitor. So, we recommend using a tool like CleanMyMac or iStat Menus. This way, you can quickly find and disable/uninstall the app.

Taking care of these apps will make your Mac faster as well. The latest versions of macOS, including Tahoe, have a feature that notifies you when an app is running in the background. You should also check your menu bar to know more about such background apps; they usually have a menu bar element.

#6 Enable Power Nap

In System Settings > Battery > Wake for network access, you can choose between three options: Always, Only on Power Adapter, and Never. You should go for Only on Power Adaptor to get the best of both worlds.

This feature will prevent unwanted battery draining when your Mac is sleeping.

#7 Close Unused Apps and Browser Tabs

Keep apps and browser tabs open only when you need them. Tabs, in particular, can sneakily use up battery if they’re running scripts or loading ads in the background.

Alternatively, you can use a web browser with features like Tab Sleeping or Suspender.

Optimize battery settings

The following settings are built into macOS, and using them can reduce battery drains.

#8 Optimize Display and Sleep Settings:

Go to System Settings > Battery > Battery and adjust your settings here.

• Enable the option to Optimize video streaming while on battery. This step will play videos on SDR instead of HDR, thus saving battery.
• Enable the option to dim the display on the battery. This step will also help you reduce potential battery drains.
• Set up your Mac to put hard disks to sleep when possible.

You can also find some options when you go to System Settings > Lock Screen.

• Set the display turnoff window to the minimum possible. I’d recommend 1-3 minutes.

This step alone can improve your Mac’s battery consumption pattern.

#9 Enable Battery Health Management

Battery Health Management is a feature designed to extend battery lifespan. You’ll find it under Battery > Battery Health. If this is off, try turning it on; it helps manage charge levels better over time.

#10 Lower Screen Brightness

This is a classic tip, but it’s still one of the best. Lower your screen brightness to a comfortable level to save battery.

#11 Turn Off Unused Connectivity (Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Location Services)

If you don’t need these, turning them off is an easy way to stretch battery life a bit further. Disabling Bluetooth, in particular, can save a noticeable amount.

You should also check which apps have access to these features. For instance, if many apps actively use the location services, your Mac’s battery will run out quickly.

Advanced solutions to fix Battery drain

Here are some advanced steps you can follow if you face a noticeable battery drain even after following the steps given above.

#12 Terminal Command

For those comfortable with Terminal, you can try a command to reset system management settings:

sudo pmset -a hibernatemode 25

This sets your Mac’s sleep mode to use less battery.

Note: Always back up your data before making system changes in Terminal.

#13 Using AlDente Pro

AlDente Pro allows you to set a charging limit (e.g., 80%) to reduce battery stress. It works more efficiently than the Optimized Battery Charging feature on macOS.

This tool can prolong battery health by preventing full charges, which are harder on lithium-ion batteries.

This is more of a precaution than a cure, though.

#14 Reset SMC (System Management Controller)

If battery drain issues persist, a more in-depth reset, like resetting the SMC, might be worth trying, especially if you’re on an Intel-based Mac. Apple’s Support site has detailed steps on this based on your model.

Turn off or adjust power-intensive features unique to Tahoe

Did you start noticing a major battery drain after installing macOS Tahoe? In that case, you should try these steps.

#15 Disable Dynamic Desktop Backgrounds

We love dynamic desktops, but they do require extra power.

#16 Reduce Animations and Motion

This might not be for everyone, but reducing motion can help. Go to System Settings > Accessibility > Display and check Reduce Motion.

#17 Disable Apple Intelligence

If you don’t really use Apple Intelligence, you might consider turning it off. Doing so would also help you free up a lot of RAM resources.

You can try the following option if you are still facing battery-draining issues on your Mac. But it’s important to make sure that your battery is in the best condition.

#18 Reinstall macOS

This is a bigger step, but if you’re still struggling after trying everything, a clean reinstall could help. When it comes to setup, don’t restore the backup. Instead, check what you install so that you have some control as well.

Just remember to back up all your data first.

FAQs

How can I monitor battery usage in real time?
Use the built-in Activity Monitor (Energy tab) or third-party system apps for detailed views.

How long does a MacBook last on macOS Tahoe?
Battery life varies by model and usage. On supported Macs, Tahoe generally maintains or slightly improves endurance compared to prior versions.

Do external displays affect battery life?
Yes, external monitors significantly increase power draw. Use them sparingly on battery and adjust settings to save power.

Are hardware factors important?
Absolutely. Battery age, temperature, and damage affect performance. Regular health checks and replacements ensure optimal life.

Final words

Most Macs adapt well to Tahoe 26 once indexing and syncing tasks finish. By adjusting settings, reducing background activity, and managing AI features, you can balance new capabilities with good battery life.

If issues persist, monitor your Mac’s temperature and battery health using Sensei or iStat Menus, or contact Apple Support. With care, you can enjoy macOS Tahoe without sacrificing endurance.

Read also

• How to Fix Slow Mac After macOS Update
• Best Mac Disk Space Analyzer (Paid and Free)
• How to Check/Test MacBook Performance
• Running Out of Application Memory on Mac? Fix?
• How CleanMyMac Helped Me Revive My Mac
• Fan Control on Mac – The Ultimate Guide

<p>The post How to Fix macOS Battery Drain (Incl. Tahoe 26) first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>