Here’s what we’ve learned after digging through this kind of mess more times than we’d like to admit: a RAW partition doesn’t mean your data is destroyed. It usually just means Windows lost the map it uses to find your files, not the files themselves.

This guide walks through the right order to fix a RAW drive, recovery first, repair second, so you don’t lose anything you don’t have to. Along the way, you’ll see what each step actually looks like on screen, so you’re not guessing your way through menus while your data is on the line, and you’ll know which parts of the process apply no matter what software ends up in your hands.

Also: Disk Partition Management: Merging, Extending, Adding, and More

Highlights

• RAW ≠ lost data. Windows just lost the map to your files — they’re usually still there.
• Recover first, repair second. Pulling files off before running any repair avoids overwriting what you’re trying to save.
• Never format when prompted. That’s the #1 way a fixable RAW drive turns into permanent data loss.
• Check logical vs. physical first. Clicking or grinding means a dying drive — stop repairing and just pull off what you can.
• Same order works everywhere: scan → recover → check for bad sectors → repair. Menu names differ by tool; the sequence doesn’t.
• Prevent it: back up regularly, eject safely, and match the file system (exFAT for cross-platform, NTFS for Windows-only) to how you use the drive.

What does it mean when a partition shows as RAW?

A RAW partition means Windows no longer recognizes the file system on that drive, so it has no way to read what’s stored there. It isn’t a format like NTFS or FAT32; it’s the absence of one Windows understands.

This usually comes from an unsafe ejection, a power cut mid-write, malware, a damaged partition table, or bad sectors piling up gradually over time, and in our experience, an unsafe ejection is the single most common trigger we run into. That “format this disk” prompt looks urgent and final, but formatting at this stage is one of the worst moves you can make.

Logical vs. Physical RAW: know your odds before you start

Not every RAW drive has the same problem, and the fix depends entirely on which one you’re actually facing.

Logical RAW is corruption in the file system or its metadata. The physical disk is fine, and recovery software can usually rebuild that map without much trouble. In our experience, most of the RAW drives we come across turn out to be logical, which is the good news buried in an otherwise stressful moment. Physical RAW means the drive itself is failing, from bad sectors or mechanical damage building up over time. No software fixes a dying disk, and pushing it with repeated scans just risks losing what’s still recoverable.

Listen to the drive before deciding. Clicking, grinding, or repeated disconnects point to physical failure. A drive that sounds normal but won’t mount is more likely a logical issue, and a quick bad sector scan can confirm which one you’re dealing with. If it’s logical, keep going, recovery software gives you strong odds. If it’s physical, stop running repair tools and focus on pulling off whatever data you still can before the drive gets worse.

Before you do anything: the one rule that matters

Stop using the drive the moment you see RAW. We’ve learned this the hard way: every action from here can either save your files or wipe them for good.

• Don’t format, even though Windows keeps asking
• Don’t save or copy new files onto the drive
• Don’t run deep repair commands before you’ve recovered anything
• Hearing clicking or grinding? Disconnect the drive and stop trying to fix it yourself.

How to recover and repair a RAW drive

Recovery always comes before repair; it’s the one rule we never break, no matter how confident a tool looks. Pulling your files off first protects you from anything a repair action might do to the data still sitting there, so you’re never trusting an irreversible step with files you haven’t backed up yet. The general workflow looks like this, regardless of which tool you use:

1. Scan the drive for file system errors first, without letting the tool fix anything yet. This shows you how deep the corruption goes before you commit to the next step.
2. Run a recovery scan and pull your files off before touching any repair option. A quick scan first, then a deeper scan if needed, should surface your original data as a recoverable partition you can preview before committing.
3. Check for bad sectors to rule out physical failure before you commit to a repair. This confirms whether you’re facing a software problem or a drive that’s actually dying.
4. Once your files are safely recovered, run the tool’s dedicated RAW repair function to rebuild the file system and restore the drive to a format Windows can read again.

Most recovery tools follow this same order, just under different menu names and layouts. Here’s what that looks like in practice, using EaseUS Partition Master as one example.

Step 1: Scan for file system errors

Right-click the problem partition inside the app’s disk list, head into Advanced, then pick Check File System.

Leave the Fix Errors box ticked before you hit Start. This tells the tool to repair issues as it finds them instead of just flagging them for later.

Let the scan run its course, then close out with Finish.

Step 2: Recover your files before anything else

Open Partition Recovery from the sidebar, pick the RAW disk, then hit New Scan and wait.

The tool runs a Quick Scan first, then a deeper Full Scan if the quick pass doesn’t find everything. Anything it recognizes as your original data gets tagged as Lost in the results, that’s the partition you want. This is the step we’ve seen people rush, closing out the moment the quick scan finishes because nothing looks recovered yet, when the full scan is what actually turns up everything.

Select it, then click Recover. Double-click it first if you want to confirm the contents match what you’re expecting, then click OK to close the preview.

Once the transfer finishes, close out with Done.

Step 3: Check for physical damage

Go to Toolkit and open Bad Sector Scan.

Select the drive you want checked from the dropdown and enable Scan Disk.

Start the scan and let it map out any damaged areas on the disk. A clean result points to a logical issue you can repair. Heavy damage points to a drive that’s failing and needs replacing instead.

Step 4: Run the one-click RAW repair

Launch the tool, go to Partition Rescue, choose Repair RAW Partition, then continue.

Once it finishes, the drive should show its original format again, NTFS, FAT32, or exFAT, with your files still there. It’s a moment that never really stops feeling like a small miracle, watching a drive Windows swore was unreadable show up clean again.

This order, scan, recover, check, repair, holds regardless of which software you reach for. The menu names will differ between tools, but skipping straight to a repair step before recovering your files is the one mistake that carries across all of them.

Also: Read our full EaseUS Partition Master review

How to fix a RAW partition on different devices

The core approach stays the same everywhere, recover first, repair second, but the tools and warning signs shift depending on the device.

Internal and external Windows drives follow the standard flow above: recover, repair, check for bad sectors if the problem returns, and treat formatting as a last resort once your data is safe elsewhere.

On a Mac, boot into macOS Recovery Mode, open Disk Utility, and run First Aid on the affected disk. We’ve found First Aid clears up the majority of logical errors on its own, no extra software needed. If First Aid can’t fix it, that’s your sign to move on to dedicated recovery tools rather than repeating First Aid over and over.

SD cards and USB flash drives fail RAW more often than hard drives do, usually from a card being pulled mid-write or a camera reporting something like a card error. The reader or port matters more here than people expect; a flaky reader can throw the same RAW-style errors as a damaged card, so try a different one before assuming the card itself is dead.

We’ve swapped a reader more than once and watched a supposedly dead card come right back to life.

Resist running repair attempt after repair attempt on flash storage too, since each pass adds wear, and flash memory doesn’t tolerate repeated write cycles the way a hard drive does. If a card keeps failing across multiple readers, treat that as a sign the card itself is on its way out, not something worth another repair pass.

Also: How to Partition a Hard Drive in Windows 11

Keeping a drive from turning RAW in the first place

Most RAW drives don’t happen out of nowhere. They’re usually the result of one bad habit or one unlucky moment that was completely avoidable, and in our experience, the same handful of habits come up again and again. A few things keep drives healthy long term:

• Back up regardless of everything else; this is the one habit we push harder than any other. A second copy kept somewhere else entirely is still your strongest safety net, no matter what else you do right.
• Match the file system to how you use the drive. NTFS works best for Windows-only drives. exFAT is the better call if you’re moving between Windows and Mac, and FAT32 is worth skipping on anything large since it’s more prone to corruption.
• Give the drive stable, consistent power. This matters most for external mechanical drives, since a cheap cable or an underpowered USB hub can cause enough instability over time to corrupt the file system.
• Run a periodic disk check on a healthy drive. Right-click it, go to Properties, then Tools, and run Error Checking, or use chkdsk from an admin Command Prompt. This only works before a drive goes RAW, since chkdsk needs a file system it can recognize to check in the first place.
• Keep malware off the system entirely, since some malware and ransomware go straight after partition tables.
• Handle portable drives with actual care. Shaking or moving an external drive while it’s reading or writing puts real strain on it.
• Never interrupt a transfer mid-way. Don’t force a shutdown, restart, or unplug a drive while it’s copying, formatting, or running a disk check.
• Always eject drives the proper way, using Safely Remove Hardware in your system tray before disconnecting anything.

Common mistakes that turn a RAW partition into permanent data loss

A RAW drive rarely destroys data on its own. What causes permanent loss is usually the panic response that follows, and we’ve watched this play out the same way more times than we can count.

• Formatting because the prompt told you to. That wipes the map to every file still sitting there recoverable.
• Reaching for repair tools before recovering anything. CHKDSK can’t actually run on a RAW drive, since it needs a recognized file system to check in the first place. The real risk is jumping into a recovery tool’s repair function before pulling your files off, which can overwrite the exact data you’re trying to save.
• Continuing to use the drive while troubleshooting. Every new file written can land on top of data you haven’t recovered yet.
• Choosing recovery software with no preview option, so there’s no way to confirm what’s usable before committing.
• Repeating a failed fix instead of trying a different method. This adds wear without changing the outcome, especially on flash storage.

RAW Partition vs. Lost or Deleted Partition, what’s the difference

People bring us both problems expecting the same fix, but they’re not the same at all. A RAW partition is still there. Windows can see it; it just can’t read the file system. A lost or deleted partition has vanished from the list entirely, though the data beneath it usually hasn’t. Same panic, different problem. RAW needs a file system repair.

Final thoughts

We’ve walked through more RAW drives than we’d like to count at this point, and the pattern never changes. Recover first, repair second, and figure out whether you’re dealing with a logical issue or a dying drive before you touch anything else. Skip that order, and you’re gambling with data you could’ve easily saved. The tool you pick matters far less than the order you follow, the same lesson buried in that flashing prompt we opened with.

Learn more…

• Top Partition Management Programs for Windows
• How to Delete System Reserved Partition
• Best Partition Manager Apps for Mac
• Top Hard Drive Recovery Software for Windows

<p>The post How to Repair a RAW Partition Without Losing Data first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

If our Mac suddenly feels hotter than usual, slows down under pressure, or starts sounding like it is working harder than it should, the good news is that overheating is often manageable once we identify the cause.

How to tell if your Mac is overheating

macOS does not usually throw a big “overheating” warning at us, so the signs are often indirect.

In our experience, the warning signs tend to be:

• Performance slowing down during heavy tasks.
• Fans running constantly or unusually loudly.
• Apps stuttering, freezing, or beachballing.
• The chassis feeling unusually hot to the touch.
• Battery draining faster than expected.

The safest way to confirm what is going on is to watch system load and temperatures with a menu bar monitor or Activity Monitor. That makes it much easier for us to spot a runaway app or background process before it turns into a bigger problem.

Why Macs overheat

There is no single cause. In practice, Mac overheating usually comes from a mix of workload, airflow, software, and environment.

Heavy workloads

Rendering video, compiling code, exporting large files, running virtual machines, gaming, and AI-related tasks can push CPU, GPU, and storage hard enough to generate serious heat.

We’ve noticed that the “it only happens when I’m doing something intense” pattern is very common. That usually means the Mac is not broken — it is simply being pushed into a thermal zone it cannot hold forever.

One recent example made this especially clear: a Reddit user reported that an M5 Max MacBook Pro got unusually hot while running AI workloads, with SSD temperatures reportedly crossing 100 degrees Celsius.

The interesting part is that the bottleneck was not just the CPU or GPU; storage activity itself became part of the thermal problem. That is a good reminder that modern overheating issues can come from places we do not always think to check first.

Bad airflow

Using a MacBook on a bed, couch, blanket, or other soft surface can block vents and trap heat. Dust buildup can also make cooling less effective over time.

We always recommend using the MacBook on a hard, flat surface first before assuming the machine itself is the problem. It is one of the simplest fixes, but people overlook it all the time.

Background processes

Too many browser tabs, login items, sync clients, and utility apps can keep the Mac busy even when we are not actively using it. That extra load adds heat and can make a machine feel randomly hot.

This is especially common when a Mac feels fine at startup but gets warmer and slower over the day. In our own workflow, we’ve found that trimming unnecessary background apps often helps more than people expect.

macOS or app issues

Sometimes overheating starts after an update rather than after a hardware change. We have seen community reports of Mac overheating after macOS Tahoe updates, which suggests that indexing, system services, external display behavior, or a buggy app can sometimes be part of the problem.

That is why we always separate “hardware heat” from “software heat”. The fix is very different depending on which one we are dealing with.

Hardware design limits

Fanless Macs, especially MacBook Air models, rely on passive cooling and chassis design rather than active fans. That means they can still handle a lot, but sustained heavy workloads will hit thermal limits sooner than on a fan-cooled MacBook Pro.

That does not make the Air a bad machine. It just means we need to respect what kind of work it is best at.

How to check what is causing it

Before changing anything, we like to figure out whether the heat is coming from a specific app, a background service, or the system itself.

Here is the process we usually follow:

• Open Activity Monitor and sort by CPU usage.
• Look for apps or processes using far more resources than expected.
• Check whether the issue appears only during one task, one browser profile, or one external display setup.
• Reboot and test again if the problem started recently.
• Try Safe Mode or a clean login session if we suspect a startup item or extension.

A menu bar monitoring tool can make this even easier, because we can see CPU load and system behavior without constantly opening Activity Monitor. When a Mac is running hot, convenience matters — if checking the problem feels like work, we usually do it less often than we should.

If the Mac started behaving oddly all of a sudden, it is also worth doing a quick security check. We do not jump straight to malware every time a Mac gets hot, but unexpected login items, strange background activity, or a compromised browser extension can add heat and make the whole system feel unstable. That is a good moment to run a security-focused scan with Moonlock and rule out anything suspicious before digging deeper.

How to cool down a MacBook Air

MacBook Air models are especially sensitive to sustained heat because they are fanless. That does not mean they are fragile; it just means they need a bit more care under load.

Use a harder, cooler surface

We always start here. Put the MacBook Air on a flat, hard surface so air can circulate properly around the chassis. Avoid laps, blankets, cushions, and anything that traps heat.

When we test a warm MacBook Air on a desk versus on a sofa, the difference is often noticeable surprisingly quickly.

Reduce the workload

Close unused browser tabs, quit background apps we do not need, and avoid pushing the Air through long video exports or other sustained heavy tasks if we can help it.

If we are doing something demanding, we try to treat the Air like a light-to-medium workload machine, not a desktop replacement.

Improve the environment

Room temperature matters more than people think. A cooler room and better ventilation make a real difference, especially if we work for long stretches.

If the room already feels warm to us, the Mac is starting from behind.

Consider a laptop stand or cooling pad

If we regularly push an Air hard and do not mind a bit of desk gear, a stand or cooling pad can help airflow and reduce thermal buildup.

This is not the most elegant solution, but it is a practical one if the Air is your main machine and you do heavier work every day.

How to cool down a MacBook Pro

MacBook Pro models have better thermal headroom because they include fans and heatsinks, but they can still overheat if the load is high enough.

Let the fans work

macOS controls fan behavior automatically, but that does not always respond fast enough to spikes in heat. If we routinely do demanding work, a fan-control utility like TG Pro can give us more direct control over cooling behavior.

For Pro users, this is often the difference between “runs hot and distracting” and “runs hot but stable.”

Watch for runaway tasks

If our MacBook Pro suddenly gets hot, we look for one process monopolizing CPU, GPU, or memory. Browser-heavy workflows, background sync, video effects, and AI tools can all be part of the problem.

In our own testing, it is often not the “big” app we suspect first — it is the browser tab, helper process, or syncing utility quietly eating resources in the background.

Check external displays

External monitors, scaling, and long-lived wake/sleep behavior can sometimes add unexpected thermal load. If overheating started after changing our display setup, we test the Mac with fewer external peripherals attached.

This is one of those issues that people rarely suspect until they unplug a monitor and the heat suddenly drops.

Update macOS and apps

A bug in macOS or in a single app can cause unnecessary heat. If the problem started recently, we update both the system and the app we suspect first.

When overheating begins right after an update, we do not assume the hardware is failing. More often than not, we want to rule out software first.

General tips to prevent overheating

A few habits go a long way toward keeping a Mac cooler over time.

• Keep vents clear and clean the machine occasionally.
• Avoid hot rooms and direct sunlight.
• Use a hard, flat surface.
• Keep macOS and apps updated.
• Close power-hungry tabs and apps when you are not using them.
• Reboot once in a while if your Mac has been running for a very long time.
• Remove unnecessary login items, sync tools, and background utilities.

We also like to think of this as “make the Mac’s job easier.” If the machine is constantly juggling too many things, it is going to run hotter than it should.

Does system monitoring help?

Yes, absolutely.

The easiest way to stay ahead of overheating is to know what your Mac is doing before it gets too hot. A good system monitor tool like iStat Menus can show us CPU load, memory pressure, fan behavior, and other signals from the menu bar, so we do not have to guess whether a specific app is causing the heat.

That is especially useful if:

• Our Mac starts heating up only during one task.
• The issue happens after login and then settles.
• We are trying to compare behavior before and after a macOS update.
• We want a quick way to spot resource-heavy apps without opening multiple system tools.

For us, system monitoring is less about obsessing over every number and more about noticing patterns. Once we can see the pattern, we can usually fix the cause.

Final thoughts

Mac overheating is frustrating, but it usually comes down to one of four things: workload, airflow, software, or hardware limits.

If our Mac is hot, we start by identifying the pattern. Is it happening during one heavy task? After a system update? Only on a soft surface? Only when an external display is connected? Once we know that, the right fix is usually much easier to find.

The main thing to remember is simple: a Mac getting warm is normal, but a Mac staying hot, slowing down, or repeatedly overheating is a sign to investigate.

<p>The post Mac Overheating: Causes and Fixes When Your Air or Pro Runs Hot first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

macOS’s Disk Utility presents APFS partitioning as a clean, almost trivial task — a few clicks, a resize bar, done. What it doesn’t show are the tradeoffs, the invisible rules, and the long-term consequences that can quietly shape how your Mac behaves months or years later.

If you’ve ever hesitated before clicking “Apply”, this guide is for you.

This isn’t a step-by-step walkthrough. It’s about understanding how APFS actually works, when partitioning is appropriate, and how to avoid the subtle mistakes that Disk Utility never warns you about.

Why APFS partitioning is still confusing in 2026

On the surface, APFS feels simpler than the old HFS+ world. No more rigid partitions. No more worrying about exact sizes. Everything appears fluid and reversible.

That’s only partly true.

APFS replaced rigid partitions with containers and volumes, but Apple’s interface intentionally hides that distinction. Disk Utility optimizes for safety and minimal friction — not for teaching users how the system really behaves.

As a result, many Mac users:

• create structures they don’t fully understand
• assume changes are risk-free because they’re “non-destructive”
• only realize the consequences when performance degrades or space runs out

APFS rewards understanding. It punishes assumptions.

APFS Containers vs Volumes vs Partitions

Before touching anything, it helps to clarify the terms Disk Utility glosses over.

APFS Container

Think of a container as the real boundary on disk. It owns a fixed amount of physical storage. Containers don’t resize themselves magically — changing them is more invasive and carries higher risk than adding volumes.

APFS Volume

Volumes live inside a container. They share available space dynamically and can grow or shrink as needed. This is why APFS feels flexible.

Partition

A disk partition sits outside APFS. Creating or resizing partitions reshapes the physical disk layout. This is the most invasive change you can make.

Key insight:

• Most users don’t need new partitions. They need additional APFS volumes. Partitions still make sense when you need hard isolation (different OS, file systems, or strict space guarantees).
• Disk Utility doesn’t explain this distinction clearly — and that’s where problems begin.

What Disk Utility doesn’t tell you

Disk Utility is not lying to you. It’s just not telling you everything. Here’s what it omits:

1. Shared Space Isn’t Free Space

A virtual machine, media cache, or runaway photo library can quietly consume space until macOS itself begins to struggle. APFS won’t warn you when one volume silently starves another — including the system volume.

2. Performance Tradeoffs Are Invisible

Disk Utility never explains how:

• heavily fragmented containers
• constant resizing
• mixed-use volumes (system + scratch + backups)

can affect performance over time.

3. There Is No Real Rollback

If something goes wrong during a resize, Disk Utility offers no meaningful recovery path. “Non-destructive” doesn’t mean “reversible”.

Also read: How to Fix “Disk Utility Can’t Repair This Disk” Error

4. Context Is Missing

Disk Utility doesn’t ask why you’re partitioning. It assumes you know what you’re doing — even when the UI suggests it’s trivial.

Pro tip: Disk Utility’s interface hides contextual controls depending on what you’ve selected in the sidebar. If options seem missing or disabled when formatting, it often means you’ve selected a volume rather than the physical device, which affects the available operations.

When you should avoid partitioning

In modern macOS, partitioning is rarely necessary — but it isn’t forbidden. The problems arise when it’s done casually, without a clear reason or a tested backup.

In practice, these are situations where you should avoid partitioning unless you have a very specific need and a reliable recovery plan:

• Your internal system drive (especially on Apple silicon)
  macOS relies heavily on snapshots, sealed system volumes, and background storage management.
• Time Machine destinations
  APFS snapshots and backups don’t coexist well with manual partition tinkering.
• Encrypted drives you resize frequently
  Encryption + resizing multiplies complexity — and risk.

If your goal is organization, separation, or workflow clarity, volumes are almost always the safer choice.

Kind note: Partitions are still appropriate when you need hard isolation — such as running multiple operating systems, using different file systems, or enforcing strict space guarantees that volumes can’t provide.

Safe APFS partitioning checklist

When partitioning is justified, restraint matters more than precision.

Before you proceed:

• Back up beyond Time Machine
  Snapshots are not a safety net for disk layout changes. Here’s the ultimate guide to Mac backup.
• Decide volumes vs partitions deliberately
  If a volume will never need strict space isolation, don’t partition.
• Name things like your future self will forget
  “Media”, “Scratch”, or “Test” age badly. Be explicit.
• Avoid resizing repeatedly
  APFS tolerates change — it doesn’t love constant reshaping.

Partition once. Then leave it alone.

When Disk Utility isn’t enough (a real-world reality)

Disk Utility handles simple APFS volume changes reasonably well. Where it struggles is with drives that have history.

Over the past few years, we’ve seen issues crop up on:

• external SSDs that lived through multiple macOS versions
• drives converted from HFS+ years ago
• containers resized multiple times without a clear structure

In these situations, Disk Utility often provides:

• no clear feedback
• no explanation of what’s blocking a change
• no insight into what’s actually happening on disk

That’s when third-party tools can make sense — not as a shortcut, but as a way to regain visibility and control.

One example is EaseUS Partition Master for Mac.

While its Windows version has long been considered a power-user staple, the Mac version has quietly matured. In 2026, it’s one of the few tools we trust when Disk Utility offers no clarity or diagnostics. Read our full EaseUS Partition Master for Mac review here.

We still default to Disk Utility for routine tasks. But when something feels off, or the stakes are high, having a tool that shows what is happening — not just a progress bar — matters.

The real takeaway: control without breaking macOS

APFS isn’t fragile. It’s misunderstood.

Apple designed it to protect users from catastrophic mistakes — not to teach them how storage actually works. Disk Utility reflects that philosophy.

If you understand containers, volumes, and when not to intervene, APFS can be remarkably forgiving. If you treat partitioning as a casual tweak, it can quietly punish you months later.

The safest approach in 2026 remains the same:

• think before you resize
• prefer volumes over partitions
• use stronger tools only when understanding meets resistance

Good storage management isn’t about clicking the right button. It’s about knowing when not to click at all.

Keep learning:

• How to Partition A Hard Drive or SSD on Mac
• Mac Meets NTFS: The Ultimate Guide to Top NTFS Tools
• Why Partitioning Still Matters in an APFS World (and When It Doesn’t)
• Top Partition Management Programs for Windows
• All About Disk Partition 

<p>The post How to Safely Partition an APFS Drive on Mac: What Disk Utility Doesn’t Tell You first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

• macOS’s built-in Screenshot tool does NOT support scrolling or full-page captures.
• You need a third-party tool — the most reliable and system-wide option today is CleanShot X.
• CleanShot X works across Safari, Chrome, PDF viewers, Notes, Mail, Slack, code editors, and more.
• Alternatives include Snagit (powerful), Shottr (free + fast), and browser extensions (limited to webpages only).

Here’s a familiar scenario for any Mac user—especially creators, developers, support engineers, or documentation writers:

You need to capture a full webpage, long document, or multi-section error log.

You press Cmd + Shift + 3, but macOS only captures what’s visible. You take ten more screenshots, manually stitch them together, and wonder why this is still so difficult in 2025.

The truth is simple: Even in macOS Tahoe (26), Apple still hasn’t added native scrolling screenshot support.

That means you need a specialized tool. And for us, the most reliable one is CleanShot X.

What is a Scrolling Capture?

A scrolling capture (or full-page capture) is a single, continuous image file that captures the content that extends beyond your current screen view. Instead of a series of partial images, it intelligently scrolls down, takes multiple snapshots, and seamlessly stitches them together into one long, usable image.

This is idea for:

• Sharing a full article or research post.
• Documenting a complete report for clients.
• Saving a chat history or support transcript.
• Capturing code files or documentation.
• Keeping full Terms & Conditions pages.
• Recording app settings or configuration panels.
• and more…

How to Take a Scrolling Capture (The Seamless Way)

From the best third-party screenshot tools we tested, CleanShot X makes this feature so easy, it feels like it should have been part of macOS all along. It’s reliable, fast, and, crucially, it works system-wide, meaning it works in Safari, Chrome, PDF viewers, code editors, and more—not just inside a web browser.

Here is the step-by-step process using the CleanShot X workflow:

1. Activate Scroll Capture. You may use the CleanShot X global shortcut. On many systems, it defaults to Cmd + Shift + C (but this can vary depending on conflicts). Or click the CleanShot X menu bar icon → Scroll Capture.
2. Select the Window or Content Area. Your cursor changes. Hover over the scrollable region you want to capture—CleanShot X automatically detects it and highlights the area.
3. Start the Scroll. Click ‘Start Capture’ button. The tool will begin scrolling from top to the bottom, capturing frames as it goes.
4. Done, Review & Edit. Click ‘Done’ to finish the capture. You’ll see a small pop-up in the corner of your screen. From here you can save, annotate, crop, edit, or share.

Why This Method Works Best

• near-perfect stitching
• accurate capture even inside apps
• consistent output for documentation or tutorials

No browser extension can match this flexibility.

Quick Alternatives & Browser Workarounds

While CleanShot X is the superior system-wide solution, some users might look for alternatives before committing. These fall into two camps: other dedicated apps and restrictive browser workarounds.

• Dedicated Screenshot Apps: Competitors like Snagit, Shottr, and Xnapper also offer scrolling capture functionality. While they are powerful tools in their own right, we find that CleanShot X offers the best balance of features, speed, and seamless integration with the Mac ecosystem.
• Browser Extensions: Tools built into browsers like Firefox or available as extensions for Chrome can capture a full web page. The Downside: These tools are restrictive. They only work within that browser window, cannot capture system dialogs, context menus, or content inside other applications like Slack or a local document viewer. They are cumbersome and lack the editing flexibility of a dedicated app.

Bonus: Safari can export a whole page as a PDF via File → Export as PDF. This way is useful if you need a document—not an image. But the complex webpages may render differently, and it’s not a true replacement for a scroll capture tool.

So, If your content creation workflow requires capturing full code files, long emails in Apple Mail, or lengthy setting panels, a dedicated tool like CleanShot X is a necessity, not a luxury.

Refining Your Scrolling Screenshot

A raw, extra-long screenshot often needs professional polish. This is where CleanShot X’s powerful, yet intuitive, editor shines.

After the capture is complete, double-click the thumbnail in the Quick Access Overlay to launch the editor.

1. Cropping for Focus: Scrolling screenshots often include unnecessary top navigation bars or bottom footers. Use the built-in cropping tool to quickly trim the image down to only the essential content, maximizing clarity for your reader.
2. Adding Context with Annotations: For tutorials, you often need to guide the user. Use the annotation tools to add sequential Steps, draw Connector Lines between elements, or highlight specific areas using the dedicated blur and emphasize tools.
3. Professional Presentation: A standard screenshot can look boring. Use the editor to add a professional touch:
   • Add extra padding and set a custom background color or a subtle gradient.
   • Apply a smooth drop shadow and rounded corners to the image, making it pop off the page and instantly look more polished and modern.

You can save these settings as presets to ensure every long screenshot you take has the exact same professional aesthetic, saving you hours of repetitive editing.

Conclusion: The Best Way to Capture Scrolling Screenshots

Again, while the default Mac tools are okay for quick, visible snaps, only a specialized application like CleanShot X can deliver the perfect, full-page scrolling screenshots your professional content demands every single time. It transforms a frustrating, multi-step process (stitch, crop, annotate, style) into a seamless, single-click operation.

We hope this guide will help you make amazing screenshots and save time with this tool. Download a free trial of CleanShot X on its official site or read our full review here.

<p>The post How to Capture Full-Page Scrolling Screenshots on Mac? first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

On the brighter side, Apple almost always addresses persistent issues by releasing prompt point updates. Still, sometimes the drain is caused by new, power-hungry features, requiring users to manually tweak settings until a software fix arrives.

If you have recently updated to iOS 26 or purchased a device optimized for it, like the new iPhone 17 series, this guide is for you. We discuss the potential causes of the drain and the specific fixes that can help stabilize battery life and performance.

RELATED: iPhone Overheating: The Why and How to Fix

iOS 26 & Battery Performance: The Causes

While it’s common for the battery to drain quickly right after the installation, the issue can become persistent.

Temporary Post-Update Indexing (24–72 Hours)

Apple confirms that immediately after a major update, the iPhone performs resource-intensive tasks like re-indexing Spotlight, analyzing photos, and optimizing installed applications. This process can cause the battery to deplete faster and the device to feel warm for 1 to 3 days. You can check the Settings > Battery screen for an “Ongoing Device Setup” insight, confirming this work is still happening.

Persistent Drain from New iOS 26 Features

If the drain continues beyond 72 hours, it may be due to the new features:

• Liquid Glass UI: The new transparent, bouncier, and highly animated Liquid Glass design requires more CPU and GPU power to render its effects in real-time. This can disproportionately affect older iPhones or cause greater drain during heavy use.
• Apple Intelligence (AI): Devices with the latest chips (e.g., iPhone 17 Pro models) support the new Apple Intelligence suite. While powerful, this on-device AI—responsible for features like writing tools, Genmoji, and smart Siri behavior—is a significant power consumer.

App Incompatibility

Older apps may not be fully optimized for iOS 26 yet, causing them to get stuck in loops and draw excessive background power.

iPhone 17 & Battery Performance

The iPhone 17 series, being the latest hardware, is designed to handle the power demands of iOS 26, including the most intensive Apple Intelligence features. However, even new devices can experience temporary heating and drain, especially when heavily utilizing the new AI features or the intense Liquid Glass animations.

If the heating on a new Max variant is still making the device difficult to use after the initial 72-hour period, it’s a strong indicator that an app or a system bug needs to be addressed immediately by Apple in a subsequent point release.

In the meantime, the precautions and tricks listed below can help manage the power until the new software updates arrive.

Tips to Control Battery Drain

Experiencing battery drain can be frustrating, especially when you have been waiting to experience the full features of iOS 26 on your iPhone. Here are some practical, proven tips with updated steps for each to help you manage and control battery consumption.

1. Let Post-Update Jobs Finish Properly

To help your iPhone complete the initial indexing and optimization phase efficiently:

• Plug your iPhone into a charger and connect it to Wi-Fi for 1–2 hours with the screen off.
• Check Settings > Battery. If you see an “Ongoing Device Setup” message, let the device rest until it’s complete. Do not chase phantom issues during this time.

2. Update Your Apps

Keeping apps updated ensures they are optimized for the latest iOS, reducing unnecessary battery drain caused by poorly adapted software.

• Start by opening the App Store on your iPhone.
• After you’re in the App Store, tap on your Apple ID icon in the top-right corner.
• Now, navigate to the Available Updates section and update all available apps.

3. Enable Adaptive Power Mode (New in iOS 26)

This new feature intelligently and subtly adjusts your phone’s performance to maximize battery life without requiring you to turn off major features.

• Start by navigating to Settings on your iPhone from the app menu.
• Once the settings are loaded, swipe down and tap on Battery.
• Look for the Power Mode section and enable the Adaptive Power toggle.

4. Tame the Liquid Glass UI

If you have an older iPhone or want to conserve power, reducing the complexity of the new design language can help.

• Open the Settings app on your iPhone.
• Navigate to Accessibility, then tap on Display & Text Size.
• Toggle on Reduce Transparency. This will turn translucent Liquid Glass elements opaque, demanding less GPU power.

5. Identify Battery-Consuming Apps

Identifying and managing apps that use a lot of battery helps you control excessive energy consumption.

• Start by navigating to Settings on your iPhone from the app menu.
• Once the settings are loaded, swipe down and tap on Battery.
• Analyze the apps and their battery usage over the last 24 hours or 10 days. If you find any suspicious app (especially one showing excessive background activity), uninstall or report it.

6. Disable Background App Refresh

Disabling the Background App Refresh feature prevents apps from constantly updating content in the background, which is a major battery saver.

• Open the Settings on your iPhone, and once loaded, navigate to General and tap on it.
• Once you’re in, look for Background App Refresh.
• Check the apps enabled and disable it for non-essential apps, or set the option at the top to Wi-Fi.

7. Enable Low Power Mode

Enabling Low Power Mode instantly reduces background activity and limits excess power consumption, extending your battery life in a pinch.

• Start by navigating to Settings on your iPhone from the app menu.
• Once the settings are loaded, swipe down and tap on Battery.
• After you’re in battery settings, look for Low Power Mode and enable the toggle beside it. (Note: Use this when you need guaranteed runtime, as it temporarily disables key features).

8. Turn off Location Services

Location services use GPS, which is a significant energy drain. Turning it off or restricting it saves battery.

• Open the Settings on your iPhone, and once loaded, navigate to Privacy & Security and tap on it.
• From the list of options, navigate to Location Services.
• Set most apps to While Using and turn off Precise Location for apps that don’t need street-level accuracy. For maximum saving, toggle Location Services off entirely.

RELATED: Top GPS Location Changer Software for iPhone

9. Disable Apple Intelligence

If you have a newer device and rarely use the AI features, turning off the suite can save a substantial amount of battery life.

• Open the Settings app on your iPhone.
• Scroll down and tap on Apple Intelligence.
• Review the available settings and consider disabling any AI-powered features you don’t frequently use, such as the system-wide AI writing tools.

10. Remove Unnecessary Widgets

Widgets, especially those with real-time updates (like weather or news), consume battery by continuously fetching data. Removing non-essential widgets helps preserve the battery significantly.

For Home Screen: Touch and hold the widget you want to remove, then tap Remove Widget, and confirm by tapping Remove again.

For Lock Screen: Start by touching and holding the Lock Screen until the Customize button appears, and tap on it. Now, select Lock Screen, and finally, tap the Remove button to remove a widget.

11. Enable Optimized Battery Charging

Optimized Battery Charging learns your daily charging routine and slows down battery aging by avoiding keeping your iPhone at 100% charge for extended periods. Healthier battery status helps control daily drain significantly.

• Open the Settings on your iPhone, and once loaded, navigate to Battery > Battery Health & Charging and tap on it.
• Now, from the list of options, ensure Optimized Battery Charging is toggled on. (Newer models may also have an 80% Limit option here).

Fixes for Persistent Battery and Performance Issues

If you’ve waited the 72 hours, performed all the above tips, and still see abnormal drain, the issue is likely a stubborn software conflict that requires a more direct fix.

Note: Before proceeding with the below fixes, there is a high possibility of data loss (especially with the Downgrade/Repair options). Hence, back up your iPhone either to iCloud or to iTunes/Finder.

1. Reset All Settings (Recommended First Step)

This crucial step clears out any stubborn service, misbehaving profile, or looping network setting without erasing your personal data (photos, apps, messages). You will only lose Wi-Fi passwords and preference tweaks.

• Go to Settings > General > Transfer or Reset iPhone.
• Tap Reset > Reset All Settings.
• Confirm the action.
• After the reset, perform a simple restart of the device.

2. Downgrade iPhone (For Older Devices Only)

If you have an older iPhone that was upgraded to iOS 26 and you suspect the OS is the issue, you may be able to downgrade to the previous stable version (e.g., iOS 18).

Apple develops iTunes/Finder to manage devices. While it is used by many for basic needs, its uses go beyond, where one can restore their device and fix issues.

Here are steps to downgrade your iPhone iOS software. If you’re lucky, you can get through the restoration via iTunes/Finder. However, if you restored your iPhone with the wrong IPSW file or the signing window has closed, the iPhone cannot be used anymore as it is bricked.

3. Perform System Repair (For New Devices)

The downgrade fix is not possible for new iPhones, like the iPhone 17 series, as they are released with iOS 26 straight out of the box and cannot be downgraded to an older OS.

In such a scenario, a 3rd-party system repair tool like Wondershare Dr. Fone can help. You can repair your iPhone 17 series and even older iPhones that are on iOS 26 by restoring them with the same version of the OS, which often clears deep system corruption without losing data (Standard Repair mode).

1. Download and install Dr.Fone.
2. In the main interface, click System Repair.
3. On clicking iOS Repair, pick “Standard Repair,” as it addresses and fixes most issues without data loss.
4. Now, you’re asked to put your iPhone in recovery mode. Refer to the on-screen instructions, and once you’ve done it right, tap on Enter Recovery Mode.
5. The rest of the process involves flashing the clean firmware onto the iPhone.

If you’re done with all the steps, you have successfully repaired your iPhone 17 or an older iPhone running iOS 26. If problems persist, it is time to wait for the next Apple update or reach out to Apple Support for a hardware check.

Conclusion

This guide offers valuable tips and fixes for iOS 26 and iPhone 17 users facing battery and performance issues. By first understanding the causes (temporary indexing, Liquid Glass, Apple Intelligence) and applying the specific iOS 26 tweaks (Adaptive Power, Reduce Transparency), you can often resolve the drain quickly.

Remember, backing up your data is mandatory before performing drastic fixes like a system repair. These steps can significantly enhance your iPhone’s efficiency and battery life while waiting for Apple’s official point updates.

Keep learning:

• Best iPhone Managers and Transfer software
• How to Put an iPhone into DFU and Recovery Mode
• How to Transfer WhatsApp from Android to iPhone
• Best iPhone Data Recovery Software

<p>The post iOS 26 or iPhone 17 Battery and Performance Issue first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

Whether you accidentally deleted a volume, a macOS update went sideways, or the file system simply corrupted itself, the good news is that the data is often still there. It’s usually just the map (the partition table) that’s gone missing.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through three increasingly advanced methods, starting with the safest and easiest native solution. By the time we’re done, we’ll have your drive map—and your data—back where it belongs.

STOP! The Critical Warning (the non-overwrite rule)

Before you proceed with any recovery method, this is the single most important rule you must follow to guarantee the best chance of success: Do not write any new data to the affected drive.

When macOS deletes a partition, it doesn’t erase the underlying data; it simply marks that space as available. If you install software, save a file, or even allow the system to write logs, you risk overwriting the lost data blocks, making that information permanently unrecoverable.

Immediate Action Plan:

1. Do Not Install: Do not install any recovery software onto the internal drive where the partition was lost.
2. Power Down (If possible): Shut down your Mac immediately to prevent the OS from performing routine background writes.
3. Choose a Safe Environment: You must run recovery operations from an external drive, a separate partition, or the macOS Recovery system.

Understanding the Loss: APFS Containers vs. Volumes

On modern macOS (High Sierra and later), Apple uses the Apple File System (APFS), which complicates the traditional definition of a partition.

• Partition (or Container): This is the high-level physical space on the disk. An APFS Container is equivalent to the old HFS+ partition.
• Volume: Inside a single APFS Container, you can have multiple Volumes (e.g., Macintosh HD and Macintosh HD – Data). These volumes share the container’s space, but they all depend on the container being visible. Losing the entire container is equivalent to losing the traditional partition.

Why Partitions Vanish

Method 1: Native Repair (Disk Utility in Recovery)

If your partition vanished due to corruption (the most likely scenario), macOS’s built-in Disk Utility can often repair the damage without needing complex software. This is always the safest and first step.

Requirement: You must boot into macOS Recovery Mode to ensure the disk is not in use.

1. Boot into Recovery: Shut down your Mac.
   • Apple Silicon (M-series): Press and hold the power button until you see the startup options. Select the gear icon (Options) and click Continue.
   • Intel Mac: Power on, then immediately press and hold Command (⌘) + R.
2. Open Disk Utility: From the Utilities window, select Disk Utility.
3. Show All Devices: Go to the View menu and select Show All Devices. This allows you to see the actual physical disk and the APFS Container, not just the volumes.
4. Run First Aid:
   • Select the physical disk (the top-most entry, e.g., APPLE SSD). Click First Aid and run it.
   • If that completes, select the missing APFS Container (the next level down). Click First Aid and run it again.
5. Check for Success: If First Aid reports that the drive was successfully repaired, quit Disk Utility and restart your Mac normally. Your partition should reappear.

What to know

• Not all problems are repairable by First Aid. If the partition map or APFS container metadata is severely damaged, proceed to deeper tools.
• Use macOS Recovery to ensure the disk isn’t mounted or in use.

Method 2: Advanced Free Recovery (TestDisk)

When Disk Utility fails, we move to open-source power tools. TestDisk is a powerful, free, command-line utility designed specifically to recover lost partitions and repair boot sectors.

WARNING: Command-Line Tool

TestDisk runs in the Terminal and is non-GUI. Misuse can cause further data loss. Use extreme caution and strictly follow the on-screen prompts.

Requirement: You must install TestDisk onto a separate external drive or USB stick, as per the Non-Overwrite Rule.

1. Install Homebrew (If not installed): Homebrew is the easiest way to manage packages on Mac.

   /bin/bash -c "$(curl -fsSL [https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Homebrew/install/HEAD/install.sh](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Homebrew/install/HEAD/install.sh))"
   

2. Install TestDisk:

   brew install testdisk
   

3. Run TestDisk:

   sudo testdisk
   

4. Select Your Drive: Use the arrow keys to select the disk that holds the lost partition and press [Proceed].
5. Specify Partition Table Type: TestDisk will auto-detect this, but for modern Mac systems, select [EFI GPT].
6. Analyze: Select [Analyze] to search for lost partitions.
7. Search: After the quick analysis, select [Quick Search] to scan the drive structure.
8. Write: If TestDisk finds the lost partition, you will see it listed. Verify the size and structure. If it looks correct, select [Write] to save the new partition table to the disk.

After writing, quit TestDisk and reboot your Mac. The partition should be mounted and accessible.

Method 3: Commercial Software Recovery

If neither Disk Utility nor TestDisk can locate or repair the partition table, the safest and easiest path forward—especially for non-technical users—is commercial recovery software. These applications use deep-scan algorithms and provide a simple graphical user interface (GUI).

The Process (Using EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard as an Example)

Crucial Step: You must download and install this software on a separate, healthy drive (either an external SSD or another Mac) to prevent data overwrite.

1. Connect Secondary Drive: Connect the external drive where the recovery software is installed to the Mac with the lost partition.
2. Run the Software: Launch the EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard application.
3. Select the Drive: The software will display all connected drives, including the one with the lost partition. The lost space will often be labeled as “Unallocated Space,” “Lost Partition,” or simply the main disk name.
4. Deep Scan: Select the affected drive and initiate the Deep Scan. This process can take many hours depending on the drive size.
5. Preview and Recover:
   • Once the scan completes, the software attempts to reconstruct the file system structure. Look for folders labeled something like Lost Files or Raw Files.
   • Preview files to ensure integrity.
   • Select the files or the entire partition structure you want to recover.
   • Save the Recovered Data to a third, separate external drive (not the source drive or the drive running the software).

This method bypasses the corrupted partition table and reads the raw data underneath, allowing you to copy files to a safe location.

Prevention: Tips to Help Prevent Lost Partitions

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of recovery. Implement these two practices immediately to avoid this issue in the future:

1. Time Machine is Non-Negotiable: Set up and maintain an automatic, continuous Time Machine backup. If a partition is lost, you can simply wipe the physical disk and restore your data and system in one go.
2. Monitor Drive Health (S.M.A.R.T. Status): Use an application like DriveDx or run a quick check in Disk Utility to monitor the S.M.A.R.T. status (Self-Monitoring, Analysis and Reporting Technology). If the status moves from “Verified” to “Failing,” your drive is predicting imminent hardware failure, and you must back up your data immediately.

Conclusion & FAQ

Recovering a lost partition can feel daunting, but by following a disciplined, tiered approach (Repair > Free Advanced > Commercial), the chance of success is very high. Remember that in the world of data recovery, patience and not writing data are your two most powerful tools.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Can I recover a partition that was encrypted with FileVault?

A: Yes, but it significantly complicates the process. If you use commercial software (Method 3), you must provide your encryption key (or recovery key) during the scanning or mounting phase. TestDisk (Method 2) is highly unlikely to work with encrypted partitions unless you are extremely experienced.

Q: My Mac won’t boot at all. What now?

A: This reinforces the Non-Overwrite Rule. You must use a second Mac and connect the faulty Mac’s drive via Target Disk Mode (T key at startup for Intel Macs) or remove the drive and place it in an external enclosure. All recovery steps must be performed from the second, healthy machine.

Q: After recovery, should I trust the old partition?

A: If the partition was recovered successfully using TestDisk, or if data was recovered using commercial software, you should immediately format the original physical disk (Container) and create a new, healthy partition before writing the recovered data back. The corruption that caused the loss is often persistent.

Q: What if no partition or container appears at all in Disk Utility (shows as ‘Uninitialized’ or not listed)?

A: This may indicate the partition map or GPT header is damaged. At this point you’ll likely need tools that can scan the full raw disk (Method 2 or 3) or professional recovery — you should not initialise/erase the drive, as that will write a new partition map and reduce chances of recovery.

Keep learning:

• How to Partition a Hard Drive or SSD on Mac
• Best Partition Manager Apps for Mac
• How to Recover Deleted or Lost Partitions in Windows

<p>The post How to Recover a Lost or Deleted Partition on macOS first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

If your Mac is running slow after updating to macOS Tahoe 26, don’t worry. This guide covers the most effective troubleshooting steps and fixes to improve your MacBook, iMac, Mac Mini, or Mac Pro performance post-update.

RELATED: How to Fix macOS Battery Drain Issue

Before your start (initial checks)

Before diving into fixes, it’s important to diagnose the root cause to avoid unnecessary steps or risk to your data.

Hardware Issues –  If your Mac has SSD problems, thermal throttling (overheating), or other hardware faults, no software fix can help. We recommend you visit an Apple Store or authorized service provider for diagnostics and repair.

Software Conflicts – Check if incompatible or resource-heavy apps are causing slowdowns. Some older apps may not yet be optimized for Tahoe.

Create a Backup – Always back up your Mac before troubleshooting or applying fixes. Use Time Machine or third-party backup tools to safeguard your data.

Check Your Mac’s Environment – Macs throttle CPU performance when overheating. Ensure proper ventilation and avoid hot ambient temperatures before blaming the update.

Quick and effective fixes for macOS Tahoe slowdown

Now that you have identified the problem and made a backup for extra security, we can check these easy and quick solutions to improve your Mac’s performance.

1. macOS slow right after an update

If this is the case for you and your Mac is feeling slow right after you completed the installation and updated the OS, the best and quickest fix you can try is to restart your Mac. Most apps and services can keep running and start hogging up all the resources, leading to slowdowns and lag. So try the following:

• Click on the Apple button and bring up the drop-down box
• Now, click the “Restart” button and let your device restart.

Note: You can hold the power button for a few seconds for a hard restart. However, if the restart does not solve the problem, you can always look at the following fixes below.

2. Use Activity Monitor to kill apps and background tasks

The following fix is not as easy as the first one, but it does help when you need that extra bit of performance. Most apps run in the background for better access but take a lot of RAM and CPU usage. This can slow down your computer, especially if you have an old Mac.

For instance, if you’re not using the latest and greatest M1/M2 Mac, expect to see some lags.

The system monitoring solution is quite adequate, and you can do this by:

• Head on to your Applications folder and then to Utilities
• Next, double-click on “Activity Monitor” to get it running
• After your screen looks something like the screenshot above, go to the CPU tab. Here you will see a list of running applications in the background, and click on any that you want to kill.
• Finally, select all the apps you want to kill and click on the “X” button to kill the apps and free up some extra performance. You can also kill any misbehaving apps that take up too much performance.

Note: You can also access “Activity Monitor” through Spotlight. Press Command + Spacebar, type in “Activity Monitor”, and hit the Return key. You can check the percentage of CPU/Memory an app uses, and if something looks unnatural such as 60% use, kill it to increase performance.

RELATED: In Depth Guide to Mac Activity Monitor

3. Check storage space

Another critical issue that can slow your Mac after an update is the storage space available on the drive. Because Apple packs new features, a new macOS version will use more storage space.

As you can see from the screenshot below, only 30GB of total storage space is left. As a result, the system is experiencing some random errors and lags.

If you have the same problem, we recommend you get rid of unnecessary system files by using a 3rd-party Mac cleaner tool or get an external drive to store some of the data. The minimum amount of free storage should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 60-70GB of free space for smooth and seamless operation. You can check your Mac’s storage by:

• On macOS Tahoe: System Settings > General > Storage
• On older macOS versions: About This Mac > Storage

Note: You can also click the “Manage” button and use the “Optimized Storage” option Apple provides to clear your Mac of unwanted junk files.

4. Let Spotlight reindex after the update

Spotlight goes into overdrive after major macOS upgrades, reindexing all your files. During this process, you may notice sluggish performance, high fan speeds, or apps stuttering.

Fix: Give it a day or two. Keep your Mac plugged in and idle when possible. You can check indexing status by clicking the Spotlight icon in the menu bar.

5. Fix iCloud sync overload

After updating, iCloud often kicks into high gear—resyncing your entire photo library, desktop & documents, and app data. This can hammer CPU, RAM, and network, making your Mac feel sluggish.

You can try:

• Open System Settings > Apple ID > iCloud to check what’s syncing.
• Temporarily pause heavy services like Photos or iCloud Drive if you need performance right away.
• Keep your Mac plugged in and connected to stable Wi-Fi to let the sync complete faster.

Tip: Once the initial post-update sync finishes, performance usually improves on its own.

6. Disable Stage Manager (optional)

Stage Manager is useful for organizing apps, but it can be resource-heavy on some Macs. With macOS 26 Tahoe, Apple introduced Liquid Glass, a lighter and more fluid windowing system.

Pro Tip:

• If you notice performance dips, try disabling Stage Manager (Control Center > Stage Manager > Off).
• Most users will find Liquid Glass alone is enough for smooth multitasking.
• Keep Stage Manager enabled only if you rely on its grouping features — otherwise, turning it off may give your MacBook extra breathing room.

7. Update to the latest build

macOS Tahoe is just out and there are many bugs you must deal with. Not to mention all the performance hits you can expect with lags and stutters. So, constantly update the version with new builds and the stable version when Apple releases it. You can check for possible updates by:

• Click on the Apple icon in the top left corner and select “System Settings” from the list
• Now, choose “Software Update” and let it check for available updates
• If you see something like the screenshot above, then click on the “Software Update…” button
• This will start the update process, and once that is completed, you will be greeted with the latest build

Note: You can expect more performance and better optimization as Apple is still working with the new OS. Increasing performance and decreasing the required power will help improve the overall experience with all their compatible devices.

8. Update your apps

Does your updated Mac become slower when you launch a particular app? It could be that the app has not been optimized for macOS Tahoe. Even though most developers roll out their updates during the macOS beta period, some might be delayed.

Therefore, you must ensure that you have updated all the apps on your Mac. You can do it different ways.

To update all the apps you have installed from the Mac App Store, you can use the ‘Update All’ button that you can find on MAS. It will download the latest version from the developers.

For third-party apps, you can use a dedicated app updater utility. For instance, the Updater utility that comes in the Macpaw CleanMyMac package will do the job. It will download the latest version of third-party apps from their official website and make things easy.

Alternatively, you can use Homebrew to install and manage the many apps on your Mac.

9. Remove unnecessary login items/startup apps

Start-up apps are helpful, but they take up a lot of performance. If you can live with starting apps yourself every time you boot into the OS and don’t need them to launch automatically, you can disable those to get that extra bit of performance and have faster booting times.

Doing so will also fix your slow Mac and improve your experience with macOS. You can remove the startup apps by:

• Head on to “System Settings” by clicking on the Apple icon and selecting the respective tab
• Next, click on “Users and Groups”, select your User, and finally, on the “Login Items” tab
• Now, you’ll be able to see a list of startup apps, as shown in the screenshot above, and you can simply remove those by selecting an app and clicking on the “-” button

Note: You can add startup apps by clicking on the “+” button and selecting an app. However, remove all the apps from the startup list if you want the best performance.

10. Clear cache

The term cache is something that most of you must be familiar with. Most people have heard the word for their phones, but the cache is also a big part of macOS. This is usually used to speed up processes and apps by storing some app data in the cache.

Still, the system’s overall performance can gradually decrease if the files exceed a lot of storage.

There are three types of cache used by macOS: System Cache, Browser Cache, and User Cache. We do not recommend you delete System Cache as it messes with the applications, but you can go ahead and delete the browser cache to free up memory and improve performance. To do so:

• Go to Finder and click on “Go”, and choose the “Go to Folder” option
• Now, enter the following path ~/Library/Caches and hit enter
• Next, you will be greeted with the folders as shown in the screenshot above, and all you have to do is select the cache files and delete them.

Note: Remember not to mess with any system cache files, as it can bring many bugs and issues, which will worsen your experience. Oh, and don’t delete the folders, just the files, and you can head on to Chrome or Safari’s settings to clear the browser cache.

You could also rely on a dedicated Mac optimizer software – with the right expectations to quickly detox the unwanted caches from the operating system. For example, the System Junk module in CleanMyMac allows you to easily remove temporary files, outdated caches, and application residue.

11. Clean up your cluttered home screen

This fix is quite simple. All you need to do is remove clutter from your home screen. Apps and Widgets can take up a lot of performance if you’re not careful, so go ahead and remove all the unnecessary app icons and widgets from your home screen and keep it clean.

The result should look something like the screenshot below.

Finally, after removing all the clutter, bring in all the apps you use regularly and add those to the home screen for quick access. However, remember to keep it minimal and don’t clutter your home screen again.

RELATED: Best Mac Apps to Clean & Organize Your Desktop

12. Reduce transparency and motion

macOS Tahoe’s Liquid Glass interface is stunning, but the constant transparency and layering effects can tax older GPUs.

Hence, one way to make your apps run more quickly and your experience seamless is by disabling the Reduce Motion and Reduce Transparency options. You may want to try this option if you want to upgrade a really old Mac to macOS Tahoe.

So, by giving up fancy animations and transparency, you can get better performance. It is a useful solution if you have an older Mac.

You can do this by:

• Click on the “Apple” button on the top left corner of the screen and select the “System Settings” option
• Next, choose “Accessibility” and then “Display”, as shown in the screenshot above
• Finally, check the Reduce Motion and Reduce Transparency checkboxes and close the Accessibility panel

Note: This will remove all transparency and motion animations which may feel a little weird initially, but you should get used to it reasonably soon. Hence, the result uses fewer system resources as there are fewer things to render, which often makes your Mac faster.

13. Consider a clean install (last resort)

The final option to improve your device performance is to either entirely revert to macOS Sequoia or do a fresh and clean install for macOS Tahoe. This will help clean your device thoroughly, and you can do this by:

Revert back to Sequoia:

• Firstly, restart your device and hold down the Shift + Option + Command and R keys
• Next, from the “Recovery Mode” click on the “Reinstall macOS Sequoia” button.
• Now, you can follow the steps and downgrade macOS back to Sequoia.

Clean install macOS Tahoe:

• Once you’re back in Sequoia, go to the “System Settings” panel and select “Software Update”.
• You will be able to see the Tahoe update there
• Finally, click on “Update…” and let it do a clean install on your Mac

Note: This process will erase all your data, so make a backup before proceeding with the above steps.

Finally, if nothing worked for you and even reinstalling Sequoia with a clean install didn’t solve the issue, you are left with two other options. These fixes can take days and money, so make sure you are ready. So, the solutions are:

Take it to an Apple Store – Taking your Mac to an Apple store will ensure you receive the best fix for your device. The Store can check for any hardware and software issues and remove any problems or replace faulty parts. However, do note that it can cost you some money and time. Therefore, we recommend this method only as a last resort.

Get a cleaning service – If your Mac is facing issues with heat and is lagging due to the CPU being throttled down, you can take it to a cleaning service and get it cleaned out. The fans gather dust and get clogged up, which raises the internal temperature. So, if you have an older model, it can seriously hamper your device’s performance.

Don’t rush to wipe your Mac. Even brand-new Macs slow down after months if you don’t perform basic care. Most of the time, the OS isn’t the problem — it’s old caches, too many login apps, or Finder/iCloud syncing dragging things down. Try these simple steps first before considering a clean reinstall.

FAQs

Why is my Mac slow after Tahoe update?

New resource demands from AI, Spotlight, and enhanced features strain hardware, especially on older Macs.

Can clearing cache improve performance?

Yes, clearing browser and user cache can help, but avoid deleting system cache files to prevent instability.

How do I reset PRAM/NVRAM?

On Intel Macs: Restart and hold Option + Command + P + R until the second startup sound or Apple logo. On Apple Silicon Macs: NVRAM resets automatically; a simple restart is enough.

Final words

A slow Mac after updating to macOS Tahoe is common but usually fixable with the right optimizations. Restarting, freeing space, updating software, and managing startup items are your first lines of defense.

When issues persist, a clean install or consulting Apple Support can help. With patience and maintenance, your Mac can continue running smoothly on macOS Tahoe.

Read also

• How to Fix macOS Battery Life and Drain Issue
• Why Mac’s Browser is Running Slow & How to Fix
• Running Out of Application Memory on Mac? Fix?
• How to Clear System Data Storage on Mac
• How CleanMyMac Helped Me Revive My Mac

<p>The post How to Fix Slow Mac After macOS Tahoe Update first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

Related: How to Fix Slow Mac After macOS Tahoe Update

Does macOS Tahoe 26 drain the battery?

macOS Tahoe 26 is not inherently flawed for battery life. But like previous major updates, it introduces new features and background tasks that may temporarily increase resource usage. Common reasons for perceived battery drain after upgrading include:

• Indexing and syncing tasks (Spotlight, Photos, Messages, iCloud) running after update. It is also true that Spotlight is more powerful on Tahoe. So, the indexing and maintenance may end up consuming more resources.
  
• New AI features like Apple Intelligence and proactive suggestions using CPU/GPU cycles. As more of these AI features run in the background, you may end up losing more battery juice.
• Older Intel Macs struggling with modern workloads. Since macOS Tahoe introduced more changes to the background infrastructure, many of these tasks put more load on an older Intel Mac.
• Different efficiency levels across Apple Silicon generations. Compared to M1/M2 chips, both M3 and M4 chips are optimized for better AI performance. This translates to relatively poor performance on those M1/M2 chips.

These impacts often settle after a few days. With proper management, most users can enjoy Tahoe’s benefits without major battery loss.

How does AI affect battery life?

Apple Intelligence, enhanced Siri, natural-language photo search, and proactive Spotlight suggestions do run background processes that use additional power.

• You can limit or disable features such as Memory Movies in Photos, Spotlight suggestions, or Apple Intelligence system integrations to reduce their impact.
• On newer Apple Silicon Macs (M3, M4), hardware optimizations help minimize AI power draw.
• If you don’t actively use Apple Intelligence, turning it off can also reduce background load.

Keep in mind that well-integrated AI features can enhance your macOS Tahoe experience. However, if your Mac has limited RAM, running all these features in the background can slow down your device.

Basic Mac maintenance (start here)

These are some basic maintenance tips that can improve the battery life of your Mac after a significant update.

#1 Restart Your Mac

This one’s easy but often overlooked. A quick restart can clear out temporary issues that affect power management. Just click Apple Menu > Restart and see if things improve.

Your Mac will restart a few times during the update, but you should manually restart after the initial setup. It will also help you optimize your apps if they install updates.

#2 Update macOS

Go to System Settings > Software Update to check for updates waiting for you. In most cases, Apple would release a minor update within a week or so. This update optimizes your Mac and resolves bugs like battery drain.

Pro Tip: After a major macOS update, give your Mac 24–48 hours to finish indexing before judging battery performance.

Battery health and usage patterns

A quickly draining battery may have to do with hardware as well. So, you should check the options below.

#3 Check Battery Health

Head to System Settings > Battery > Battery Health to see your battery’s condition. If it says “Normal”, you’re good. But if it’s showing “Service Recommended”, it might be time for Apple to check your battery.

Don’t worry. If you see the message during the warranty period, you’ll get a free replacement.

#4 Use Activity Monitor

We recommend taking a look at Activity Monitor to see what might be draining your battery. Open Activity Monitor > Energy tab, and sort by Energy Impact. This will show you which apps and processes are using the most power.

If something looks off (like a process using way more energy than expected), close it to save some juice. If the built-in Activity Monitor doesn’t cut it, you can go for a third-party monitoring app. Such apps typically provide an overview of what is affecting your battery life.

In most cases, you’ll come across an app that takes up a lot of energy. If it’s not a necessary app, you can get rid of it or go for a lightweight alternative. Apps consuming more battery resources is common if you are running a version that isn’t optimized for macOS Tahoe. So, before you uninstall the app, check for an update.

Check for and turn off background apps/activity

Background activities and apps may offer a relatively snappy experience. But they come at the cost of battery backup. Here are some steps.

#5 Find and Turn off Background Apps

Some apps may have daemons running in the background, consuming battery resources. They are difficult to spot through the Activity Monitor. So, we recommend using a tool like CleanMyMac or iStat Menus. This way, you can quickly find and disable/uninstall the app.

Taking care of these apps will make your Mac faster as well. The latest versions of macOS, including Tahoe, have a feature that notifies you when an app is running in the background. You should also check your menu bar to know more about such background apps; they usually have a menu bar element.

#6 Enable Power Nap

In System Settings > Battery > Wake for network access, you can choose between three options: Always, Only on Power Adapter, and Never. You should go for Only on Power Adaptor to get the best of both worlds.

This feature will prevent unwanted battery draining when your Mac is sleeping.

#7 Close Unused Apps and Browser Tabs

Keep apps and browser tabs open only when you need them. Tabs, in particular, can sneakily use up battery if they’re running scripts or loading ads in the background.

Alternatively, you can use a web browser with features like Tab Sleeping or Suspender.

Optimize battery settings

The following settings are built into macOS, and using them can reduce battery drains.

#8 Optimize Display and Sleep Settings:

Go to System Settings > Battery > Battery and adjust your settings here.

• Enable the option to Optimize video streaming while on battery. This step will play videos on SDR instead of HDR, thus saving battery.
• Enable the option to dim the display on the battery. This step will also help you reduce potential battery drains.
• Set up your Mac to put hard disks to sleep when possible.

You can also find some options when you go to System Settings > Lock Screen.

• Set the display turnoff window to the minimum possible. I’d recommend 1-3 minutes.

This step alone can improve your Mac’s battery consumption pattern.

#9 Enable Battery Health Management

Battery Health Management is a feature designed to extend battery lifespan. You’ll find it under Battery > Battery Health. If this is off, try turning it on; it helps manage charge levels better over time.

#10 Lower Screen Brightness

This is a classic tip, but it’s still one of the best. Lower your screen brightness to a comfortable level to save battery.

#11 Turn Off Unused Connectivity (Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Location Services)

If you don’t need these, turning them off is an easy way to stretch battery life a bit further. Disabling Bluetooth, in particular, can save a noticeable amount.

You should also check which apps have access to these features. For instance, if many apps actively use the location services, your Mac’s battery will run out quickly.

Advanced solutions to fix Battery drain

Here are some advanced steps you can follow if you face a noticeable battery drain even after following the steps given above.

#12 Terminal Command

For those comfortable with Terminal, you can try a command to reset system management settings:

sudo pmset -a hibernatemode 25

This sets your Mac’s sleep mode to use less battery.

Note: Always back up your data before making system changes in Terminal.

#13 Using AlDente Pro

AlDente Pro allows you to set a charging limit (e.g., 80%) to reduce battery stress. It works more efficiently than the Optimized Battery Charging feature on macOS.

This tool can prolong battery health by preventing full charges, which are harder on lithium-ion batteries.

This is more of a precaution than a cure, though.

#14 Reset SMC (System Management Controller)

If battery drain issues persist, a more in-depth reset, like resetting the SMC, might be worth trying, especially if you’re on an Intel-based Mac. Apple’s Support site has detailed steps on this based on your model.

Turn off or adjust power-intensive features unique to Tahoe

Did you start noticing a major battery drain after installing macOS Tahoe? In that case, you should try these steps.

#15 Disable Dynamic Desktop Backgrounds

We love dynamic desktops, but they do require extra power.

#16 Reduce Animations and Motion

This might not be for everyone, but reducing motion can help. Go to System Settings > Accessibility > Display and check Reduce Motion.

#17 Disable Apple Intelligence

If you don’t really use Apple Intelligence, you might consider turning it off. Doing so would also help you free up a lot of RAM resources.

You can try the following option if you are still facing battery-draining issues on your Mac. But it’s important to make sure that your battery is in the best condition.

#18 Reinstall macOS

This is a bigger step, but if you’re still struggling after trying everything, a clean reinstall could help. When it comes to setup, don’t restore the backup. Instead, check what you install so that you have some control as well.

Just remember to back up all your data first.

FAQs

How can I monitor battery usage in real time?
Use the built-in Activity Monitor (Energy tab) or third-party system apps for detailed views.

How long does a MacBook last on macOS Tahoe?
Battery life varies by model and usage. On supported Macs, Tahoe generally maintains or slightly improves endurance compared to prior versions.

Do external displays affect battery life?
Yes, external monitors significantly increase power draw. Use them sparingly on battery and adjust settings to save power.

Are hardware factors important?
Absolutely. Battery age, temperature, and damage affect performance. Regular health checks and replacements ensure optimal life.

Final words

Most Macs adapt well to Tahoe 26 once indexing and syncing tasks finish. By adjusting settings, reducing background activity, and managing AI features, you can balance new capabilities with good battery life.

If issues persist, monitor your Mac’s temperature and battery health using Sensei or iStat Menus, or contact Apple Support. With care, you can enjoy macOS Tahoe without sacrificing endurance.

Read also

• How to Fix Slow Mac After macOS Update
• Best Mac Disk Space Analyzer (Paid and Free)
• How to Check/Test MacBook Performance
• Running Out of Application Memory on Mac? Fix?
• How CleanMyMac Helped Me Revive My Mac
• Fan Control on Mac – The Ultimate Guide

<p>The post How to Fix macOS Battery Drain (Incl. Tahoe 26) first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

However, if you are new to Mac, you may have trouble partitioning a hard drive or SSD on a Mac. For what it’s worth, you can choose between a few options. In this guide, we will share with you a few different ways to partition a hard drive or SSD on a Mac, including built-in and third-party methods.

Related: Disk Partition Management: Merging, Extending, Adding Partitions and More

Things to Know Before Partitioning

Before you start, keep these points in mind:

• Apple Silicon limitations: On Macs with M1, M2, M3, or M4 chips, partitioning is supported, but third-party partitioning tools are limited compared to macOS’s built-in Disk Utility. Some disk utilities (like GParted or advanced Linux partitioners) are impractical on Apple Silicon because they require custom boot configurations.
• Keep Macintosh HD untouched: Avoid resizing or modifying your main startup partition unless you know exactly what you’re doing. For testing Linux or other OS installations, use an external drive or virtualization instead of touching Macintosh HD.
• Prefer APFS volumes over partitions: In macOS, you can create new APFS volumes inside the existing container. Volumes dynamically share space, making them more flexible than fixed partitions. Use partitions only if you need completely different file systems (like ExFAT or NTFS).
• Cross-platform considerations: To share a drive between macOS and Windows, use ExFAT or NTFS (with helper tools). For Linux compatibility, ExFAT or FAT32 can help, but partitions may be necessary.

If your goal is just file organization on Mac, folders are simpler. If you want to run Linux or Windows, virtualization (Parallels Desktop, UTM, or VMware Fusion) is often easier than native partitioning on Apple Silicon.

Method #1 Step-by-Step Guide to Partitioning Using Disk Utility

Disk Utility is macOS’s built-in tool for managing drives. It works reliably on both Intel and Apple Silicon Macs.

1. First, you need to open Disk Utility on your Mac. It will automatically list all connected disks on the sidebar. The list would include both Internal and External drives.
2. You can select the drive that you want to partition and click the Partition button on the top-right side of the window.
   
   
3. The upcoming pop-up window allows you to manage the partitions on the disk. You can use the pie chart to understand the current organization of the disk. You can now use the + button on the left side to create a new partition.
   
   
4. If the SSD/hard drive uses the APFS system, macOS will ask you to pick one of the two options: Add Partition and Add Volume. To keep things simple, a partition is an internal division, and the drive will appear as a single device on a Mac. However, you can add a new volume to the device, and it will show as two devices.
   
   
5. Using the next interface, you can choose the name, format, and size for the partition. As you might already know, macOS will dynamically choose a suitable size for the partition. However, you can make changes as you wish.
   
   
6. You can now click Apply and wait for macOS to complete the partitioning process. Once this is done, a new partition will be created on your Mac.

Keep in mind that partitions do not affect the way you see the drive. Even when a drive has many partitions, it will be shown as a single removable device. If you want to split the drive into two separate device entries, you must create multiple volumes.

Method #2 Using Third-party Partition Management Tools

Disk Utility is good for most cases, but it has limitations, particularly for managing NTFS or setting up Windows/Linux-friendly partitions. While third-party options on Mac are more restricted than on Windows, they can help:

Here is how you can use third-party utilities to overcome these limitations.

• iBoysoft NTFS for Mac: Enables full read/write support for NTFS volumes on macOS. Useful for formatting drives to NTFS for Windows, though it doesn’t do complex repartitioning.
• EaseUS Partition Master (Mac version): Works better than iBoysoft if you also need to resize, create, or format partitions beyond NTFS support. On Apple Silicon, most operations are limited by macOS security, but it can still streamline creating cross-platform partitions (ExFAT/NTFS).
• Paragon NTFS for Mac: Another stable option for NTFS write access and formatting. Not primarily a partition manager, but fast and reliable for cross-platform drives.
• GParted (advanced users only): Open-source tool for repartitioning, but not practical for Apple Silicon Macs. It can be used on Intel Macs that support booting from Linux USBs. On Apple Silicon, virtualization (via UTM) may be needed to run GParted indirectly.

Use these tools mainly if you’re preparing a drive for a Windows or Linux system outside of macOS.

Common Problems & Troubleshooting

Here are a few issues you may come across while partitioning a hard drive or SSD on your Mac.

• You might come across Partition Failed errors once in a while. It may happen if another application is actively using the disk. You can solve the problem by formatting the disk.
• Sometimes, Disk Utility may show partition options as greyed out, not allowing you to click on them. In these cases, you likely have an encrypted drive.
• Not all options from Disk Utility are available on all file systems. For instance, APFS works great with all features, whereas exFAT doesn’t.

Alternatives to Partitioning

Depending on why you feel like partitioning in the first place, you can consider some alternatives. Here are a few:

• You can always rely on folders and directories to keep your storage organized. This process is simpler and does not pose further risks, either.
• To run operating systems other than macOS on your Mac, you can try options like VirtualBox or Parallels Desktop. These options are pretty powerful these days.
• You can also rely on partition manager tools for easy access to features like resizing and backup. Keep in mind that most of them are available only for Intel-based Macs.

Conclusion

Partitioning isn’t always necessary, but it can be helpful when sharing drives between Mac, Windows, and Linux. For most Mac users, APFS volumes or virtualization tools are safer and more flexible.

For example, I use a USB drive for Time Machine backups. At work, I also need the same drive on a Windows PC. By creating a separate ExFAT partition, I can use part of the drive on Windows without disturbing my Mac backups.

<p>The post How to Partition a Hard Drive or SSD on Mac first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>

So what’s going on here? Why did Apple make these moves, and more importantly, what can we do about it? Let me break it down.

Mystery Solved: Why Third-Party Apps Vanished from Control Center

In Sequoia and earlier, third-party apps could hook into Control Center, sitting neatly alongside Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and AirDrop. That meant you could keep utilities like VPN clients, clipboard managers, battery monitors, or even Launchpad within easy reach.

With Tahoe, Apple has locked Control Center down to system apps only.

Now, only Apple’s own toggles remain — Wi-Fi, Focus, Bluetooth, AirPlay, and the like. Third-party hooks are gone, full stop.

Apple hasn’t published a deep technical explanation, but from developer chatter and community consensus, three reasons keep coming up:

• Consistency → Apple wants Control Center to look identical on every Mac, just like on iOS/iPadOS.
• Security & Stability → Third-party integrations sometimes caused crashes, visual glitches, or weird UI conflicts.
• Spotlight & AI Push → Apple wants you to rely more on Spotlight and the new AI-driven app suggestions for launching apps, not Control Center shortcuts.

That last point stings the most. It feels like Apple is nudging us away from our way of working and into their vision of app access.

The Impact on Productivity

For me, Control Center used to be a one-stop dashboard. I could:

• Toggle VPN on/off.
• Check CPU temps with a quick glance.
• Jump straight into Launchpad.

Now? I have to dig deeper. Either I open Spotlight, hunt in the Dock, or rely on scattered menu bar icons.

And I’m not alone. Reddit threads and Apple forum discussions are full of users calling this a step backward. Many power users had customized Control Center into a mini command hub, and losing that flexibility makes everyday workflows less efficient.

Workarounds: How to Regain Quick Access

Here’s what actually works in macOS 26 Tahoe right now — what I’ve tested, and what users widely report as stable. I’ll also flag the methods that used to work in betas but have since broken or been disabled, so you don’t waste time.

What works today

• Use the New “Apps Panel” with Spotlight
  The new panel replaces Launchpad: it pops up as a floating window (via Dock icon or Spotlight), shows a list of all apps (alphabetical), and includes “categories” filtering under the search. It’s not what longtime Launchpad users are used to, but it is Apple’s official replacement.
• Dock Method: “Applications” Folder in Grid View
  Pull your Applications folder (or a custom folder of frequently used apps) into the Dock. Set the view to Folder → Grid. This mimics the visual layout of Launchpad and gives quicker access than searching for every app.
• Spotlight Search (Cmd + Space) Remains Strong
  If you’re used to typing rather than clicking, Spotlight is your go-to. It handles both searching names and launching. Many users say it’s faster once you adjust.
• Third-Party Launchers (AppGrid, LaunchNext, etc.)
  These are the community’s response. AppGrid Launcher is available on Mac App Store; LaunchNext is an open-source alternative that brings back the LaunchPad interface that was deprecated in Tahoe/macOS 26.

What to skip

• Terminal ‘SpotlightPlus’ Trick
  During the betas, you could toggle a hidden flag to bring back Launchpad. That’s gone in the final release. Trying to force it now risks breaking Spotlight’s new features or causing instability.
• Old Gestures or Hot Corners
  Since Launchpad itself is removed, any trackpad gestures or hot-corner assignments pointing to it are now dead. They won’t bring the feature back.

Bottom line: Tahoe forces us to rethink how we launch and manage apps. Spotlight and Dock stacks cover the basics, while tools like AppGrid or Alfred unlock even better workflows if you’re willing to explore beyond Apple’s defaults.

Developer Insights & Apple’s Stance

So far, developers have confirmed that there’s no official API for third-party Control Center integration in Tahoe. That means it’s not a bug — it’s by design.

Could Apple reintroduce a limited API in the future? Possibly. But for now, Control Center is Apple-only territory. Instead, the company is steering developers (and users) toward widgets, Spotlight, and AI-driven app discovery.

Conclusion: Adjusting to the New Control Center

I’ll be honest: I miss Launchpad, and I miss the flexibility of having third-party apps in Control Center. Apple’s move in Tahoe does make things cleaner and more consistent, but it also makes the Mac feel less customizable — and that’s always been one of the Mac’s strengths.

That said, with tools like Alfred, BetterTouchTool, and widgets, you can rebuild much of what’s been lost — and in some cases, end up with an even more powerful setup.

So if you’re mourning your missing shortcuts, don’t uninstall Tahoe just yet. With the right Mac utilities, you can reclaim control and maybe even discover a better productivity sweet spot than before.

Keep learning:

• How to Fix macOS Battery Drain (Incl. Tahoe 26)
• How to Fix Slow Mac After macOS Tahoe Update
• How to Take a Screenshot on Mac

<p>The post Launchpad Is Gone in macOS 26 Tahoe — Here’s How to Cope first appeared on TheSweetBits.</p>